Tomy size Motor Adaptor for clone/ZZ chassis

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Mon Mar 14, 2005 9:15 am

Check it: I've been blown away by the Tomy 3.0 Lucifer Rotor running with a tomy stock cell- maybe a 3.4NX zz motor would work nice with a tomy cell?(and for that reason I'm ordering those KANs cells soon)-and made a way that's still in testing so you can use the entire catalog of Tomy motors on a clone/ZZ chassis, due to their 1-2mm larger motor bay. I took soldering tape and made an overhanging J-clip whose excess from a strip of soldering tape was folded over on itself, making it so all Tomy motors fit. What it means is that I can tune or detune any bit car, as long as the motor isn't hard wired. I mean, try to race 4-6 people who all have a 1.0 motor as their handicap!!!

I can provide my paper blueprint via scanner, but I still have no damn digital camera for photos. Anyway, I think using strips of copper that are 1-2mm wider would work perfectly, but I don't know where to get the copper I need.
Any take on this?

JDM-R34 · Post by **JDM-R34** » Mon Mar 14, 2005 9:25 am

That sounds pretty cool, have you tried Your LHS for copper? Maybe a local hardware store will have some copper.

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 2:26 am

Thanks for the compliment! ...Of course, my idea needs some refinement before I conclude all this.

I wanna try copper, so yeah, I'll get over to Home Depot or something and pick some up with my cinder blocks I need for my floorstanding tower speakers (gloat...pffft). I can also check this place called Harbor Freight, they have more specialized tools and supplies for contractors and plumbers.

Too bad I can't do a clone adaptor so really wide motors like in ZZ's fit in Tomy motor bays. But I'm no longer a big fan of the ZZ motors or the pro clones out there, so screw it.

Stayin' cool like Kid Frost,
Abe

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:22 am

when the motor is too short i just shove some plastic behind the terminal to push it out more.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 8:36 am

betty.k wrote:when the motor is too short i just shove some plastic behind the terminal to push it out more.

There's the answer I would have gave.

... but you know with me there's always more.

My question is why you would want to put a Tomy motor in a Zip Zap? The Purple 3.4 NX will feed tail lights to the Tomy 3.0. Tomy motors seems to totally lack torque, to me.

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 3:06 am

What does that mean "The purple 3.4 NX will feed tail lights to the Tomy 3.0"? I don't get it (I'm 'tore back at the moment)

I'd have to disagree from my observations. The 3.0 ran at instant full speed to me, and the 3.4 NX always seemed like it needed to wind up to a lower top speed, IMO. Maybe it's the battery type in Tomy vs. Clone?

That should all be resolved when I get my KANS nimh cells of course

Also, I tried prying the metal behind the motor out and wedging it with plastc, but maybe it's just harder than I'd imagine. Of course, the solution I found is more modular; it's meant to be as easy to remove as a heatsink.

Too into my own vertigo to keep typing.... uhhhh I am buzzed big time,
Abe

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:31 am

i mean the motor terminal in the chassis. not on the actual motor itself.
try a little oil on your motors too.

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:36 am

I know what you mean, the chassis contact plate, and not the motor contact plate. I've tried Singer sewing machine oil, perhaps there is something better?

stampede_dude · Post by **stampede_dude** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 6:19 am

all i did was fold up some aluminum foil...lol

seeberg · Post by **seeberg** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 12:50 am

how many layers? And it still conducts well? I'd imagine copper is the way to go, but I'll try aluminum foil, for sure.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 8:14 am

seeberg wrote:What does that mean "The purple 3.4 NX will feed tail lights to the Tomy 3.0"? I don't get it (I'm 'tore back at the moment)

It means, in a race, all the car with the 3.0 will see is taillights.

You know, there is quite a bit a varience in these motors, so we'll have different experience, and it's really hard to say who's right or wrong, but in this case, I have to say, you must have a bunk zz 3.4. I mean don't get me wrong, the 3.0 Lucifer Rotor is good motor, but it is rated at 3.0 or 30,000 RPMs. I have at least a dozen motors that are rated 3.6, 3.8 or 4.2, that are fairly consistant to their ratings when comparing to a 3.0, and that is to say they are much faster. The 4 NX 3.4s I have are all strong motors that perform just under my fastest motors, as they should. While I like a 2.6-3.0 for short tracks, I personally, would not even put them in the same class for top speed.

I say Tomy motors lack torque, because I have at least a dozen 2.6 (light blue endbell) or 3.0 (pinkish red endbell, look like a stock ZZ motor) clone motors, and they all kill Tomy motors of the same rating for torque.

stampede_dude · Post by **stampede_dude** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 8:57 am

not sure seeburg, but you wont be able to tell a difference with that small of current...just fold it up and see whats right.

DarkTari · Post by **DarkTari** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 1:50 pm

According to how the end bell is made, if it has a tab, I've normally pulled out the end bell tab a lil and bend in the chassis contact plate with a small screw driver. Also I make sure the motor tab is facing up to make the best contact with the chassis contact plate. Never had an issue !

The 3.0 is an okay rotor (I've gotten enough free ones from TE) but I've had Kit 2.6's that blew them away, torque & top speed wise. And KIT 2.2's that will run real close. I have to agree with Dave about the 3.4NX, that rotor is pretty damn fast.

stampede_dude · Post by **stampede_dude** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:52 pm

DarkTari wrote:According to how the end bell is made, if it has a tab, I've normally pulled out the end bell tab a lil and bend in the chassis contact plate with a small screw driver. Also I make sure the motor tab is facing up to make the best contact with the chassis contact plate. Never had an issue !

The 3.0 is an okay rotor (I've gotten enough free ones from TE) but I've had Kit 2.6's that blew them away, torque & top speed wise. And KIT 2.2's that will run real close. I have to agree with Dave about the 3.4NX, that rotor is pretty damn fast.

haha you crack me up pimp

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 5:26 pm

stampede_dude wrote:
DarkTari wrote:According to how the end bell is made, if it has a tab, I've normally pulled out the end bell tab a lil and bend in the chassis contact plate with a small screw driver. Also I make sure the motor tab is facing up to make the best contact with the chassis contact plate. Never had an issue !

The 3.0 is an okay rotor (I've gotten enough free ones from TE) but I've had Kit 2.6's that blew them away, torque & top speed wise. And KIT 2.2's that will run real close. I have to agree with Dave about the 3.4NX, that rotor is pretty damn fast.
haha you crack me up pimp

Silly goose. That's what it says on the package. "3.0 Lucifer Rotor". When I first got into bits, it seemed everyone was calling them rotors, but that never caught on with me.