bitPimps.lixlink.com

nice job...

how much would you sell one for? (+S/H) to my door.



-nox

Thanks everyone.

cowfish: unboosted about as fast as when it was boosted single celled, and then when you hit the boost, definitely faster, but compared to other types of dual cell setups I could not compare because this is my first.

Stoli: I am just using a cheap $20 testors airbrush. Mainly because I am a cheapskate. I think it works fine as long as you keep everything clean and have the proper mixture of paint and thinner. But more important than the quality of the airbrush is the prep work. 90% of how any paint job comes out depends on this.

nox: I wouldn't feel comfortable selling this stuff yet because I am not happy with the quality completely. Maybe after a few more bodies I might change my mind. Maybe I am just too critical

Do you have a good paint/thinner ratio you'd care to share? Because I was thinking about getting one of those testors ones. Do you use certain paint or just testors model paint?



Also what prework? Scuffing and cleaning masking etc?

The article on this site is a good place to start. It gives out all the basics and then some. You don't necesarily have to scuff the body although some do. Here are some things I have learned

-Primer is good, it sticks to the plastic and the paint sticks to it
-wash the body in mild soap and water before masking, learned this from 1/10th scale stuff.
-Use a sharp exacto knife
-Never use the edge of masking tape to make a straight line, instead cut it straight (with your sharp exacto and a ruler)
-for graphics try cutting the design on something other than the body and then transferring the mask.
-right before you paint anything spend a few minutes making sure the tape is down securely everywhere, especially body lines where paint can bleed. Some like to use a pencil or toothpick to make sure its down in there good.
-thinner to paint ratio depends on the type of paint you are using. My testors airbursh said 1/2 paint 1/2 thinner for gloss enamels. I have been using testors gloss enamels (I have a bunch of them from my 1/24 stuff), and I find it better to mix it with more than half paint otherwise it seems runny. However you have to experiment.
-most importantly, and probably my biggest downfall, let the paint dry overnight before you even think of messing with it. This will reduce the chance of handling blemishes, fingerprints, etc. I am too impatient and usually cannot wait more than an hour before wanting to rip off the masking and see how it came out.

Thanx man ! thats great . Off to Wal-Mart I go high-ho.

LOL

off to All Electronics i go high-ho.

So is there a way to mod a controller for dual cell while retaining the ability to have the LED tell you when you're done charging?

Holy revived thread batman!!! 2008-2003 = holy crap

First off, what car are you wanting to Dual Cell?

All of them...now just answer the freaking question!

You need it to charge from one more cell in Tx than the car has, the LED works off a Capacitor circuit. Change caps, change charge time.

I'll let Sidewinder handle the rest of the question.

Simple, just don't use the charger, take an old power cord and plug it into a 220v outlet, take the cut ends and hold them to the poles of the batteries (it doesn't really matter which way...positive and negative are just an imaginary ideas anyway). Now just hold them in place until you see a dark brown smoke...keeping in mind that grey smoke and sizzling sounds don't count...just ignore them...


Disclaimer: this in no way guarantees the safety of the use or the competence of of the writer. The battery owner assumes all risk, including but not limited to electrocution, burns, death, loss of bowl control, foul smelling flatulence, sexual deficiencies, loss of vision, tinnitus, gout, plague, regional famine, etc.