bitPimps.lixlink.com

Yep guys, I recently scored a couple chassis off filelicker and for the las couple days i've been researching all the BP info I could find, even spilling over to TRC.

So I have a question for SWG......



Shall I continue , seeing as we had a deal and all

This mustang is Goin' topless soon. It's slot lowered, and the front has 2 extra slots. one that's about -5mm and the other is about -2mm. I'll see which one I can use after my wheel swap. I'm not leaving the 'lectriks stock either, but I'll keep that cat in the bag.

EDIT: It seems that the -5mm slot is actually causing the chassis under the steering arm to bend upward, causing binding in the steering. So I guess extreme lowering as pictured below are just for that, pictures only.

REAL REASON FOR THREAD_____________________________
This won't be a progress thread. I have a problem with one of the chassis I got, when I try to charge it I'm getting the amber light. And I'm getting it on all channels. I haven't cracked it open yet, but I'm asking so I'll know where to look. Why do I wait so late to get into these things

Maxximum Attack wrote:
So I have a question for SWG......

Shall I continue , seeing as we had a deal and all

This mustang is Goin' topless soon. It's slot lowered, and the front has 2 extra slots. one that's about -5mm and the other is about -2mm. I'll see which one I can use after my wheel swap. I'm not leaving the 'lectriks stock either, but I'll keep that cat in the bag.

Hmmm, am I sensing some shady activity here. Can't wait to see what it looks like finished. My mustang is almost ready (oops let that slip).

Ohh it might be your batts are bad or the white wire on the pcb came loose (amber light issue).

Now I'm gonna do like the rest of you Pimps....

Razac Hand & Body.........Motion Lotion ???????

Hey I couldn't resist

Can't wait to see whatcha do.........

DarkTari wrote:Now I'm gonna do like the rest of you Pimps....
Razac Hand & Body.........Motion Lotion ???????
Hey I couldn't resist
Can't wait to see whatcha do.........

My old aunt gave me that as a Xmas gift, knowing FULL well that I don't celebrate Xmas. It's an old school scented lotion, she said "Ya courtin', so here! Mek ya self smell sweet fuh de girl" To this day it hasn't been opened, it smells awful .
I forgot to move with some money to buy the rims today, so I'll do that next week when I cash this week's cheque.

@sat4life27: I got this body from SWG, and that pimp made me sign a pre-nump , So I gotta ask permission from the FIL

Maxx

Ok, so I've added a few mods to my SE. It's now DC modded and has a ZZMT motor installed. But for some reason , if it charges w/o the amber light, it only is on throttle for 1 second. I have no idea why.

I tried to do the steering fix, but a half-assed attempt yields similar results. I only clipped the bridge between the blue and green wires.

I actually swapped in a DC modded board and I put all the wires back where they come from. So why isn't it working? Codesuidae can you shed some light?

With the problems this chassis is giving me, I'm not sure I'll get more than one entry done

The body is very nearly finished, all the painting is done

I know the pimps'll help
Maxx

Maxximum Attack wrote:
EDIT: It seems that the -5mm slot is actually causing the chassis under the steering arm to bend upward, causing binding in the steering. So I guess extreme lowering as pictured below are just for that, pictures only.

I wouldn't say that. That comes across as if anybody with a SE that low is probably just posing for pics, but I assure you cars such as this, are fully functional, lights too.


I think your problem is that is probably not the best body for a SE. It sat really high on an OG chassis. You need to figure out where its hitting the chassis, and try to shave away at that area. I've had to do that before, to avoid the issue you're having.

REAL REASON FOR THREAD_____________________________
This won't be a progress thread. I have a problem with one of the chassis I got, when I try to charge it I'm getting the amber light. And I'm getting it on all channels. I haven't cracked it open yet, but I'm asking so I'll know where to look. Why do I wait so late to get into these things

Amber light means one of 2 things, its either not reconizing the battery, or its not getting the signal from the PCB.

The first thing I would do before I even take it apart, is check the battery tabs to make sure voltage is getting to them. (If you don't have a multi-meter yet, get one, its the most valuable diagnostic tool you could ever have) With the front of the car pointing up, looking at the bottom of the chassis, left is signal, middle is -, and the right hand side tab is the +. If you're getting a voltage reading, its more than likely the signal wire that is the problem. Very little or no voltage and its probably the battery. So now you need to open up the car. If you found the battery was making good contact and had voltage you want to inspect your signal wire, if it passes a visual inspection then you need to use your ohm meter, by placeing one probe on the tab on the bottom of the chassis, and the other where the wire meats the PCB. If the signal is getting to the PCB, then there is either something wrong with the PCB or the Tx. If there is resistance, then you should just yank that wire and replace it. If your problem was with the batteries, then the you'd want to pull the battery from the car and check its voltage, if its dead its dead, but if its got some voltage then you need to check all the points where the battery makes contact, and check the motor capacitor in the back of the chassis. I've found that RS doesn't always shrink the shrink wrap on those, and it slips out of place, causeing the lead on the capacitor to short the battery.

Thanks for all the help dave, I'm glad you explained what the amber light means. All i knew it meant was "something's wrong try again "

My more recent problem was with another chassis, it seems that it was acting weirdly because the Tx batts were dead. I only realised that when the amberlight stopped coming and the light started turning off all together I charged the batts, and now their fine. The car actually gets warm after the 2nd charge now (just like you guys were saying)

But i have lost all steering. i just clipped the bridge, i have to go back and check the steering fix thread. EDIT: My yellow steering wire was disconnected

Maxx

Make sure the car is on while charging.

EDIT: Sorry i'm confused by the last post, did you fix your cars, or only one?

Well, in my tearing down, I lost one of the suspension springs. So I have now reduced the car that wasn't working well to a Parts donor. And now my SE entry is working great. I just have to relocate my DC mod so my trunk can fit.