Swaybar Spring Suspension (Tutorial)
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- bitDisciple
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Swaybar Spring Suspension (Tutorial)
I was talking with Shaun last night about Off-Road performance mods for the Walgreens Charg-N-Go bullet clone Trucks. One of the mods I suggested as being incredibly good, is one that I've mentioned a few times but I think it's been generally overlooked because it's not as trick as coilover springs on the knuckles, but it does work. And it works well.
Which one of these vehicles has a "sprung" front end?
They both do.
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Ok, before you call BS on me, grab one of your old swaybars. If you're using one off a really cheap clone, preferably one with a deeper "V" but any of them should work as long as they aren't completely flat. We're going to be removing the little structural rib that goes across the top, and thinning our the arms between fulcrum and the end pads. Then, the swaybar is inverted and snapped back into the chassis *upsidedown* so what used to be the top that would limit how high the knuckle would go is now pushing the knuckle down.
Instead of a fixed tension coil spring like we all traditionally use on these, you're making a torsion spring that you can fine tune to be as firm or complient as you wish.
Grab an old swaybar, a file, a knife, maybe a gnawing rodent, and even something to drink (optional). We'll get started as soon as I finish taking some pics.
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Ok, in this absolutely HORRIBLE pic, the stock one I'm starting with is on Right. If you use your imagination, you can almost see the stiffening bar across the top I was talking about. God that pic sucks.
Use the file, knife, or gnawing rodent to fairly carefully hack that stupid stiffening spine off. It's dead to you!
Once that stiffener is removed it should look something vaguely like the thing on the left. Only yours should be in focus, and hopefully look like the gnawing rodent didn't go too far.
Then just grab your file (or absurdly sharp knife if you really think you're that good) and smooth up any mistakes you might have made, then start thinning out the thickness of the swaybar. I can't tell you how far to go, just that you want it to be nice and springy under the weight of the bit, yet you don't want it to be too hard or too soft.
Be sure that you get your right and left sides as closely balanced in force as possible. (Though I guess if you were doing an oval-track racer, you'd want one side softer, but you'd be weird.) Anyway, just keep fiddling with it until they're perfect. If you're building a Jumper, then leave the bar stiffer; if you want something to soak up all the bumps, go thinner.
Make absolutely positive that you don't have any abrupt transitions in material thickness between the fulcrum and the pads, otherwise it'll be a stress riser and be MUCH more likely to break there. Haven't had it happen, but don't want you to risk it. The swaybars were NEVER intended to be used this way, I'm sure their material isn't too well suited for it.
After you finish modding it down, I'd reccomend some kind of color coding for it, so you can tell it's not a standard swaybar anymore.
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Ok maybe it's a hack job, but it allows ANYBODY to run a sprung front-end without having to open the steering box and risk screwing it up, and the need to find those tiny coil springs is gone too. Probably will take well under half an hour if you know how to use a file, the gnawing rodent doesn't run off with the part, and you're not drinking something really high proof.
Which one of these vehicles has a "sprung" front end?
They both do.
---------
Ok, before you call BS on me, grab one of your old swaybars. If you're using one off a really cheap clone, preferably one with a deeper "V" but any of them should work as long as they aren't completely flat. We're going to be removing the little structural rib that goes across the top, and thinning our the arms between fulcrum and the end pads. Then, the swaybar is inverted and snapped back into the chassis *upsidedown* so what used to be the top that would limit how high the knuckle would go is now pushing the knuckle down.
Instead of a fixed tension coil spring like we all traditionally use on these, you're making a torsion spring that you can fine tune to be as firm or complient as you wish.
Grab an old swaybar, a file, a knife, maybe a gnawing rodent, and even something to drink (optional). We'll get started as soon as I finish taking some pics.
------
Ok, in this absolutely HORRIBLE pic, the stock one I'm starting with is on Right. If you use your imagination, you can almost see the stiffening bar across the top I was talking about. God that pic sucks.
Use the file, knife, or gnawing rodent to fairly carefully hack that stupid stiffening spine off. It's dead to you!
Once that stiffener is removed it should look something vaguely like the thing on the left. Only yours should be in focus, and hopefully look like the gnawing rodent didn't go too far.
Then just grab your file (or absurdly sharp knife if you really think you're that good) and smooth up any mistakes you might have made, then start thinning out the thickness of the swaybar. I can't tell you how far to go, just that you want it to be nice and springy under the weight of the bit, yet you don't want it to be too hard or too soft.
Be sure that you get your right and left sides as closely balanced in force as possible. (Though I guess if you were doing an oval-track racer, you'd want one side softer, but you'd be weird.) Anyway, just keep fiddling with it until they're perfect. If you're building a Jumper, then leave the bar stiffer; if you want something to soak up all the bumps, go thinner.
Make absolutely positive that you don't have any abrupt transitions in material thickness between the fulcrum and the pads, otherwise it'll be a stress riser and be MUCH more likely to break there. Haven't had it happen, but don't want you to risk it. The swaybars were NEVER intended to be used this way, I'm sure their material isn't too well suited for it.
After you finish modding it down, I'd reccomend some kind of color coding for it, so you can tell it's not a standard swaybar anymore.
-
Ok maybe it's a hack job, but it allows ANYBODY to run a sprung front-end without having to open the steering box and risk screwing it up, and the need to find those tiny coil springs is gone too. Probably will take well under half an hour if you know how to use a file, the gnawing rodent doesn't run off with the part, and you're not drinking something really high proof.
Last edited by frizzen on Sun Oct 01, 2006 7:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Jack of all trades, master of none; yet often better than master of one.
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End genital mutilation, don't circumcise. Restore your fore'
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End genital mutilation, don't circumcise. Restore your fore'
- steelwoolghandi
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- bitDisciple
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I, I don't have a basement. Unlike SWG I can't just keep a dozen beautiful women wearing only underwear down there to do all my modding for me. The budget is tight, that's why I only have the Gnawing Rodent. (it's appeared in most of my tutorials)
Alright _s2000, I'll try and get some more pics of my offroad stuff. What would you like? Workbench shots of the modded naughty bits, out hitting some trails, something else...?
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uh my camera kinda ran outta battery... so more shitty pics when it finishes charging.
Alright _s2000, I'll try and get some more pics of my offroad stuff. What would you like? Workbench shots of the modded naughty bits, out hitting some trails, something else...?
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uh my camera kinda ran outta battery... so more shitty pics when it finishes charging.
Jack of all trades, master of none; yet often better than master of one.
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End genital mutilation, don't circumcise. Restore your fore'
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End genital mutilation, don't circumcise. Restore your fore'
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- bitNinja
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Anything you can snap a picture of, i'm looking into converting some bits to offroad myself, I love offroad, and I am/was big into 1/10 stuff, mainly scale trucks, custom builds and stuff. I'd just like to see what you've done This is also why I was asking about those trucks
We don't need no god damn roads!
- steelwoolghandi
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- hue35
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I've tried this same thing a long-ass time ago. It seemed like it worked pretty well at first, but then I realized it was causing a problem... the downward pressure on the knuckle post caused some binding, which made the steering less responsive, and a bit slower to return to center. The red sway bars also cause a similar problem for me... have you run into any of this?
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- crazydave
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Yep I have noticed that. That's why I don't really care for spring front ends, but I do sand the tops of my swaybars to make clearance for them to still pivot under lowered bodies. I've noticed sometimes when they're too thin my steering gets that mushy feel. A drop of superglue helps stiffen them up.hue35 wrote:I've tried this same thing a long-ass time ago. It seemed like it worked pretty well at first, but then I realized it was causing a problem... the downward pressure on the knuckle post caused some binding, which made the steering less responsive, and a bit slower to return to center. The red sway bars also cause a similar problem for me... have you run into any of this?
I also like to bend my swaybars down, seems to give quicker steering response.
- betty.k
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great job frizz!
i've tried this and it worked well for me
but i didn't shave a sway bar, i just used thin plastic and anchored it in the middle with some wire.
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/artic ... 40&catId=3
i've tried this and it worked well for me
but i didn't shave a sway bar, i just used thin plastic and anchored it in the middle with some wire.
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/artic ... 40&catId=3