anyone think of a microsizer differental

FeRReT of WaR · Post by **FeRReT of WaR** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 3:24 am

that would be cool use tiny tiny bbs. and washers. that would be cool someone should mass produce them.

noxorc · Post by **noxorc** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 5:16 am

How about fully automatic hydromechanical, continuously variable with electronic controls transmission?

or
Direct front and rear driveshafts with torque-sensing front differential ?

Post by **CaboWabo** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 8:41 am

how bout we get em to drive straight first lol

noxorc · Post by **noxorc** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 8:11 am

CaboWabo wrote:how bout we get em to drive straight first lol

yours don't drive stright? lol....

maybe it's dem big-ass alloys you got on there..

or da bitch gotta stop givin yer head, so YOU can drive stright.

Post by **CaboWabo** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 8:39 am

I'm gettin my "swerve" on

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 11:17 am

regluing the wheels back onto the axle helps tremendously. epoxying the axle into the chassis really helps.

viperdout · Post by **viperdout** » Sun Dec 14, 2003 3:19 pm

What about rewiring the PCB so three motors could be used. You leave the stock one in the back, and drill a hole for a motor in the knuckles. Wire the motors up. Then you let the shaft sit on the wheel, and you have AWD! Just a thought.

SPORTCAR · Post by **SPORTCAR** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 10:38 am

Hi,
I built a working ball differential. Works mint in my ZZ and SE cars, really cuts down on the back end slipping out in corners. Needed a jeweler's lathe to make it though. Uses 1/16" ball bearings. and it fits into the gear on the axel, but the tensioning device fits in the back left wheel.

I'm thinking I'll need to make a video of this thing doing its stuff. Really think I could sell something like this? Likely about $25 USD for the time it takes. Parts are cheap at this scale.

Post by **CaboWabo** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 12:59 pm

wow, man let's see some pics - some vids - somefin
I'd love to see that mod

if it really works and improves performance, I'm sure someone out there will try it

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 3:44 pm

I have a plan in the back of my head using a screw, some small balls, and Tech Deck nuts.

Don't know if it'll work, but I'll lay it out for you.

You have a long small screw coming through the wheel and gear, with your washer/pressure plate mounted against the inside if the gear. On the other side, I use silver solder, and a butane torch (which I don't have, hence me never trying this) to attach couple Tech Deck wheel nuts stacked up on the end of a shortened piece of axle, to give the screw something to thread into. Then maybe solder the washer/pressure plate in place to press the spring against the pressure plate that will press against the balls. The two halfs will screw together to press against the balls. The screw spins freely in the wheel and gear, allowing friction from the plates pressing on the balls to drive it, creating a limited slip ball diff.

Sounds feasable, doesn't it?

CharG_tuner · Post by **CharG_tuner** » Sun Dec 21, 2003 12:10 am

damn tiny Bits! does anyone think adding a dif onto a bit would have any sort of handling change what so eva (or noticable)? well at least you could show it off..

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Dec 21, 2003 8:36 am

After re-reading my last post, I realized I confused myself even, and mixed up the order.

So I drew a pic.

Now, does that seem feasable?

noxorc · Post by **noxorc** » Sun Dec 21, 2003 9:51 am

explain how the pressure plates work please? in this situation.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Dec 21, 2003 10:34 am

noxorc wrote:explain how the pressure plates work please? in this situation.

Because the wheel spins freely on the screw, the friction from the balls pressing against the pressure plate turn the wheels. Because you are pressing against free spinning balls, they will allow the pressure plates to spin in opposite directions creating a differential effect.

This is how a simple 1/10th scale ball diff, like what you'd see on a Bolink car, works.

Because you are useing friction to drive the wheels there will be a little slippage, which will actually improve traction by eliminating wheel slip off the line. Something that would be beneficial with a FET modded bit. You could tune the slippage with different tension springs, probably from pens.

It's just a theory, but it is based on real experiences with ball diffs.

potentiality · Post by **potentiality** » Fri Dec 26, 2003 8:49 pm

I thought I read over at tinyrc that the Yokomo Puchi Maru diff can fits the same as the bits/zz's. Though i havent seen this confirmed.

It works differently from yours above though in that the tension is created by magnets.

The problems with this are
A: Finding a LHS place that can order yokomo parts.
B: Finding out what parts numbers needed to create the complete axle and most likely idler gear as well.

EDIT: I misread! The magnetic version is Shooterb's mod. No one had posted how the yokomo version works. Though it does include one.