problem, new esc is causing glitching
- betty.k
- bitPimp
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problem, new esc is causing glitching
i recently got a new esc for my rally (mtronics digi sport max, reverse, brake, no motor limit) and i'm having major glitching issues. the voltage drop when i hit the throttle hard is so big that it kills the power to the rx giving me an effective range of about 10m. if i throttle very gently it works fine.
ph2t tells me putting a bigarse capacitor on the battery terminals will make up for this so i tried out a 1000uf 16v cap (pictured). it helped a tiny bit but not nearly enough.
so what kinda stuff do you guys do in this case? is it common? or have i got a dud esc?

ph2t tells me putting a bigarse capacitor on the battery terminals will make up for this so i tried out a 1000uf 16v cap (pictured). it helped a tiny bit but not nearly enough.
so what kinda stuff do you guys do in this case? is it common? or have i got a dud esc?
- stampede_dude
- bitNinja
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- betty.k
- bitPimp
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- chrome
- bitNinja
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What kind of motor is that hanging out down there betty? Gotta be sure it's got at least 3 capacitors on it. Also, just in case you were running a no-reverse ESC before, did you take of the Schtokky Diode? Another thing to try is to twist your motor leads around one another. This also helps reduce glitching some. When you tested your pack was it fully charged? Some ESC's have problems running on lower voltage packs.
Later,
Chrome...
Later,
Chrome...
Intelligence is knowing what you don't know.
- betty.k
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done all that, caps on motor, full packs, etc.chrome wrote:What kind of motor is that hanging out down there betty? Gotta be sure it's got at least 3 capacitors on it. Also, just in case you were running a no-reverse ESC before, did you take of the Schtokky Diode? Another thing to try is to twist your motor leads around one another. This also helps reduce glitching some. When you tested your pack was it fully charged? Some ESC's have problems running on lower voltage packs.
Later,
Chrome...
the motor is a kyosho 19t xspeed.
- stampede_dude
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hmmm....overgeared maybe?gp stick packs are a good brand so thats not the problem. do people run r/c cars around your house on a similar frequency?does your motor need new brushes?im not positive but if your brushes were worn out te comm wouldnt be getting as much contact and would be pulling more current to support the armature to keep it going. this is probably wrong though on the last part.
- betty.k
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i check the brushes regularly so it's not that. i never had a problem with the other esc, and that's the only part that's changed.
it's been suggested that i've got the cap in the wrong place. instead of wiring it directly to the battery i'm told it should be wired to the power lead going to the rx. so i've attached a cap to a servo plug and i'll plug it into the free batt socket on the rx. this makes sense to me as it's only the reciever suffering in the whole deal. i'll let you know how i get on.
it's been suggested that i've got the cap in the wrong place. instead of wiring it directly to the battery i'm told it should be wired to the power lead going to the rx. so i've attached a cap to a servo plug and i'll plug it into the free batt socket on the rx. this makes sense to me as it's only the reciever suffering in the whole deal. i'll let you know how i get on.
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- bitPlaya'
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I know you probablly did thie already, but check your antenna for anything wrong with it. Check your Xtals in the Tx and Rx, and check your Tx batteries. Did you remove the skotchkey (sp?) diode, or did your ESC include one for installation. I don't know the part number, but I hear of some racers using a Yokomo Noise Supressor to keep glitching down to a minimum.
There's no replacement for displacment.