Tamiya Schnitzer BMW M3 4WD On and off road

All discussions about 1:18 scale and up electric onroad RCs.
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JDM-R34
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Post by JDM-R34 »

backdrift wrote:Oh and, a hotter motor would do ya good, with that stock motor ( 27t ) You will be expecting about 15mph :-)
ugghhhhh slowness, I need something a lot faster then, a stock Xmod goes faster than that, haha, anyway whats the best low budget motor, because right now I can't afford the BL motors :-?
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Post by backdrift »

Uhm, i dont know about prices. Im lazy, but its probley higher than 15, depends on the gear ratio ( X:Y ) But it all depends on your esc, the motor limit is usually in winds, so go with that number or a little above it. If its very low like 8 or so, stick with a 16 or so. Should have 'er cookin in no time.
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JDM-R34
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Post by JDM-R34 »

Alright thanks, so say the motor goes 15 mph, If I got a better ESC that allowed "more juice to flow" I could get better speeds or more torque?
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backdrift
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Post by backdrift »

Better speeds =)
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Post by PimpIke »

i don't understand why you guys are asking him to buy high-end stuff for his budget-level r/c car. Matched 3300'S, expect to pay 30-60, plus you have to build them. Nice peak charger? Whats Nice? Much-More CTX is 180, Novak Milli is 130, Duratrax ICE is 130. And then you need to get a motor. Low-turn motors aren't cheap. Surikarn vantage 8x2 is around 70. Redline 19Turns are around 50. And the ESC? If you want a "high-end" ESC, have fun paying for it, because one of those can be 150 dollars. Not trying to sound like an ass, but i think i have a valid point to as which, you have to know what you want to do with your car. Say you want to drift, you don't need matched 3300's, neither a nice peak charger, just a decent one and EPIC 3000's (around 17 a stick). Plus some ABS to make drift tires, and a budget radio (70) would put you in a tight spot for the competition. Trust me, I've blown almost the most money in this damn hobby, and i can't even race right now because i have saturday school. It really sucks to see 1000+ sitting there not being used until the summer. :sad:

And just to get your facts straight, it doesn't ALL matter on your gearing, and it really doesn't matter about your esc for the turns nowadays, sinec most esc's have a bottom turn for like 10T. Mine has a 4turn limit, but i run 23turn Stock, so thats not a problem. Gearing the thing too high (really close x:y) will cause explosion of motor (i've had this 3 times already, trust me, it sucks to see a pile of smoke arise in the damn middle of the track and then smelling it :sad: ) Gearing it too low will also be bad because you will not get the punch you will want at higher speeds. ESC is more for adjustablity for punch/smoothness, Turn Limit (not a big deal nowadays), and Punch itself. Don't forget to run a punch cap to make that thing way faster. :eek:

And what you have just told JDM that a esc with less resistance will usually make the motor faster. Yes it is true, but with a MABUCHI 540 silver can, it will make minimal difference.
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JDM-R34
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Post by JDM-R34 »

Alright man, Thanks for the info.
I know this hobby, or at least this scale (1:10) is expensive, and I know I'll have to spend a lot for quality and performance, but I was just asking Ya'll if there are any cheaper routes, still doing my homework here (figuring out what setup I want) and looking for the best deals on parts, but Thanks everybody for the info and help.
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backdrift
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Post by backdrift »

Why would we ask him to buy this stuff? Its suggestions, but the chassis setup isnt that bad at all.. I ran one with matched 3k's and a 18 turn for a looooong time, and the only thing that ended its life was a reciver failure that sent it into a curb. And plus, if he likes 1:10 now, buys the stuff, experiences etc.. He will buy a better chassis eventually.
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Post by Mazda787b »

If you aren't racing, and just want a good "bashing" platform, just get the basics. Get a nice stock motor (P2k2, monster Stock, Binary 2, etc.), and some 3000mah batts from Batteryspace. For an ESC, a Futaba MC230CR and s omething like a Futaba 2PL radio. For $100, this is all you really need. Its a nice basic setup and should serve you well even for some Sportsmen racing.
There's no replacement for displacment.
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JDM-R34
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Post by JDM-R34 »

Alright sounds good, thanks Ya'll, I got the paint for the M3, so I'll cut out the wheel wells and start painting, it's going to be "sprint white" which is the closest I could get to Alpine white like real Bimmers, and then I'll put on all the Team Schnitzer and Sponsor decals.
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Post by stampede_dude »

go to www.towerhobbies.com if you already havent. imo, they always have the cheapest stuff, when shipping is added in, no matter where i order and it comes super quick. for a good esc, get a novak xrs. theyre small, cheap, reversible, and since its novak its good. ive not had one of them,but i have had an explorer II, it was a great esc, i put the lowest turn motor i could on it AND 7 cells which you arent supposed to do, and it didnt get it but maybe mildly warm. for a motor a good motor series is the speed gems by trinity. but if youre looking for fast at a little less than stock try a trinity chameleon pro II motor, i like mine and im going to put the arm into my 17t amber can.
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Post by Mazda787b »

Sounds like you will have a cool car. Like I said before, if you plan on doing racing every once in a while, the Futaba ESC is the way to go. The XRS is nice for bashing, but the Futaba's Reverse-Lockout makes it great for racing.
There's no replacement for displacment.
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JDM-R34
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Post by JDM-R34 »

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with Futaba, I do plan on racing, and a little drifting of course....can't wait til it's all done.
Thanks
Oh yeah if I can I'll post pics. tomorrow of the body painted.
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Post by stampede_dude »

the futaba is cheaper, but this esc is cheaper and i can vouch for quality(just dont get it wet)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... XAXT8&P=ML

and it has a lower turn limit. if he wants to dirf he'll have to have a better motor than a stocker to lug that thing around, its really not for drifting.
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Post by Mazda787b »

Not to rreally argue with you Stampede, but a Torque-based stock motor (like the P2k2 Pro) is perfect for drifting. It makes more torque than anything. Remember, you do not need speed for drifting, you need more torque.
There's no replacement for displacment.
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JDM-R34
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Post by JDM-R34 »

Right, drifting does not require all speed, but more torque, just enough to lose some control :driving:
I finished cutting out the wheel wells and sanded em' smooth, I don't think I'll paint today though.
Thanks for the recommendations on what to get, I still got awhile to make a final decision, I'm going to wait til the body is done.
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