bitPimps.lixlink.com

I'm confused on the pricing scheme of the Mamba ESC/Motor combos.

Looking at their Mamba Package page here:
http://www.castlecreations.com/products/mamba.html

There's basically 4 levels of packages, all the same ESC (Mamba-25), but with 4200Kv, 5400Kv, 6800Kv and the ever famous and INSANELY FAST 8000Kv.

The confusing part to me is if you put 1 of each of those packages in the shopping cart on their site...THEY'RE ALL THE SAME PRICE (except for the 8000Kv, which is only $20 more)!!!.

I don't get it, if they're all the same price...Why would anyone opt for the 4200 vs. getting the 6800Kv for the same price??

After reading the specs on the different motors, I figured I'd want to go with the 5400Kv because it's got LOADS of speed, but still gives solid performance...But then I see it's the same price as the 6800Kv.

Gee, if it's the same price why WOULDN'T I get the 6800Kv?

What am I missing?

Its all about usage.

I have a 4200 and a 6800 Mamba, and I can't use them for the same purpose.

The 4200 is great in a Mini-T on a slightly tech track, but put the 6800 in it and its just retarded and almost uncontrolable.

The 4200 sucks ass in my MLST, but the 6800 rocks!!!

Its all about the application you choose for the motor.

However, the ESC is so redicolously programable with the Mamba Link, that you can get the faster motor and scale it back a bit.

Get the 6800 and the Mamba Link and you'll be FULLY satisfied.

Afterthought...

Don't buy it straight from CC.

You can definately find the set-ups cheaper elsewhere. Your good for shopping, look around.

If you settle on a Mamba, be SURE to get the Mambalink!!

bpp always has the best mamba pricing.

For typical bashing of the m18, 6800 is the way to go. 8000 is loony on 3 cells, plus then you have to worry about parts. Even 2 cell lipo is fun on those motors.

Also consider getting the mamba link. cc is continually upgrading the firmware.

Thanks for that breakdown fellers, I figured there had to be some kind of reasoning for having the same pricing structure across the board (except for the 8000).

So, basically, the lower Kv motors offer more Torque/Control/Runtime and less heat...While the higher Kv is for speed freaks. So it's a give-n-take across the product line.

yes and no.

The KV rating is not where it ends. ALWAYS keep in mind the pinion spur gear option you will take and if you choose 2 or 3 cell lipo.


Also, there are other motors out there that run just fine with the mamba.

Check out www.aoneletrctric.com I've got their AON4900 in my Kyosho Half8 with mamba25 esc and a 11.1V 1800mAh pack. It has a ground speed of approx 50-60kph but the torque on it is just insane.

I take it your setting up an M18 for brushless?? What rig are you planning on putting the mamba in?

Yessir, the brushless is for the M18.

I might want to toss out the idea of getting an 8000, so long as you've got a digital rx/tx setup. I've got an 8000 in my mini-t but when I run at the track I turn down the throttle to about 70% maybe even less.

That way when you decided you want insane speed you can turn it up to 125%


Just helpin out

Get the damn 8000, because you can't turn up the throttle on lower kv systems. It's gonna take awhile for you to get used to the power with a li-po if you've never driven anything R/C that's been way too overpowered (if you can drive a Shumacher Fusion semi-comfortably, which is a 1:10, 3 speed, .21-powered car, you'll be about the same with an M18 with an 8000/3 cell li-po). I can comfortably drive my M18 at top speed only because I got some practice with my xmod. My suggestion is to get a body with shitty aero, then go for a BRP wedge-shaped body and make a wing, because mine will fly literally with that body (I can't deny it, it's faster with that body).

Edit: forgot to mention, GET A MOTEK CHASSIS. It'll amek the car handle great.

Nope. Not gettin the 8000 dude.

A coupla reasons why...

1. I ain't got the kind of space that would allow me to utilize a monster like the 8000. Heck, even the 6800 probably won't see much full-throttle. The little track area I found is 20'x40'.

2. After reading info at Castle's site about how stepping down the speed of the motor ain't the best way to go (trumped speed gets dissipated via heat), not to mention the kind of demands that kind of speed/torque puts on the parts (don't feel like swapping in new parts all the time).

Nah man, I'm goin with the 6800. Heck, I was even thinking the 6800 might be too much and was going to go with the 5400...But I'll go 6800.

Namuna wrote:Nope. Not gettin the 8000 dude.

A coupla reasons why...

1. I ain't got the kind of space that would allow me to utilize a monster like the 8000. Heck, even the 6800 probably won't see much full-throttle. The little track area I found is 20'x40'.

2. After reading info at Castle's site about how stepping down the speed of the motor ain't the best way to go (trumped speed gets dissipated via heat), not to mention the kind of demands that kind of speed/torque puts on the parts (don't feel like swapping in new parts all the time).

Nah man, I'm goin with the 6800. Heck, I was even thinking the 6800 might be too much and was going to go with the 5400...But I'll go 6800.

If you're racing in an area that small, I'd strongly recommend not going with a mamba. You will find that it's much more enjoyable to drive it with a coreless motor or a mod motor such as a Reedy Mini Max and a regular old brushed ESC. My local track is roughly that size, and my car would eat up the long stretch in less than a second, and just wasn't fun, even at 40% power. On the other hand, I drove the track owner's M18 with a coreless/Spy ESC/6 cell and a motek chassis, and it was fantastic for that track and that space.

Yeah, my coworker was telling me he's planning on getting a Reedy Mini Max coreless.

...But he also mentioned something about having to deal with a lot of maintenance on the motor? Like needing to replace the brushes every so often?

Namuna wrote:Yeah, my coworker was telling me he's planning on getting a Reedy Mini Max coreless.

...But he also mentioned something about having to deal with a lot of maintenance on the motor? Like needing to replace the brushes every so often?

That is not such an issue with higher turns around 17 turns. Spray your motor out after every run, use comm drops, and bearing oil, and you should only have to replace your brushes every 10-15 runs. They're only a couple bucks, and I kinda enjoy motor maintenence. The comm should only need to be cut half as often. Most LHS, and nearly all tracks will have a lathe to cut the comm for you, and should only charge like a buck.

On the other hand, I was running fast hand wound 10-11 turn motors with soft compound brushes, in my 1/10th scale cars, and I didn't realize motors like that need their brushes replaced every 3-5 runs and the comm cut equally as often. When I fried the comm on a $70 motor after only 5 runs I learned my lesson, and that's when I kinda gave up and sold my cars swearing never to get back into 1/10th scale again until I could afford to go nitro.

So that's why I'm kinda interested in brushless for 1/18th, fast motor, no maintenence, perfect, but from what I've read and seen, brusheess don't seem to have the power band for small tracks. They seem to prefer to be run wide open.

I have no idea on the coreless, but the Orion coreless has a sealed endbell, so I dunno how they expect you to change the brushes.

Edit: http://www.balakracing.com/teamorionelitemod.htm

According to that, Orion never wants you to open up that motor, so it chould be perfect. It's expensive, but it is a fabulous motor.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBEF4

I forgot to mention, it should have a seriously increased runtime compared to most brushed motors.

Now you got my curiosity going about coreless motors. This part is partivular got my interest:

When you spin the armature, you will notice the motor has a lot less resistance that a regular motor. The Elite Modified Motor tends to "coast" a lot more because of this.

But I'm curious if there's any chance the stock Losi speedo will handle these motors? If I'm gonna have to get a new ESC at the same time, a sensored brushless motor like the mamba, is looking more interesting again.