Axial AX-10 Scorpion

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 8:00 am

supergroup_crawler wrote:
crazydave wrote:
supergroup_crawler wrote:Not bad for straight out of the box... no mods.
Almost no mods.

From RCCrawler.com:
The only 2 things that aren't stock in the video are the tires and battery. The tires are the sticky version of the Rock Lizards, and we ran either a six cell 2/3a pack or lipo on the front links/axle. Everything else is bone stock, with no weight added anywhere.
After seeing what you have to do to make a Clod, TLT or Wheely King into a viable crawler.... I would hardly call batteries, spring spacers and different tires a modification. lol.

I doubt that anyone will run the batteries in the stock location. Even though he's got diff tires on there, there was no weight added to the wheels and no foam mods either. Pretty cool either way.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the Axial, its still very cool. I just think the video could be a little misleading if people didn't know that. Personally I was baffled how it was getting over things so well with that battery mounted up so high, so I felt a little silly when I found out it wasn't in the stock position. I agree moving the batteries don't count much as a mod, but a set of tires runs like $40. To a guy like me, on a budget, that is a significant mod.

SHAUN · Post by **SHAUN** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 9:15 am

You can make the normal compound axial rock claws perform the same as the race ones in the video. Of course thats with the Race compound tires being stock and the normal compound tires having cut foams. I like my normal compound tires better than the race compound.

supergroup_crawler · Post by **supergroup_crawler** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:17 am

crazydave wrote:
supergroup_crawler wrote:
crazydave wrote:
supergroup_crawler wrote:Not bad for straight out of the box... no mods.
Almost no mods.

From RCCrawler.com:
The only 2 things that aren't stock in the video are the tires and battery. The tires are the sticky version of the Rock Lizards, and we ran either a six cell 2/3a pack or lipo on the front links/axle. Everything else is bone stock, with no weight added anywhere.
After seeing what you have to do to make a Clod, TLT or Wheely King into a viable crawler.... I would hardly call batteries, spring spacers and different tires a modification. lol.

I doubt that anyone will run the batteries in the stock location. Even though he's got diff tires on there, there was no weight added to the wheels and no foam mods either. Pretty cool either way.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the Axial, its still very cool. I just think the video could be a little misleading if people didn't know that. Personally I was baffled how it was getting over things so well with that battery mounted up so high, so I felt a little silly when I found out it wasn't in the stock position. I agree moving the batteries don't count much as a mod, but a set of tires runs like $40. To a guy like me, on a budget, that is a significant mod.

Word. I see what you're saying.

Myself and probably 90% of the people who end up with one will never run it completely stock. I am just excited to not have to assemble a make-shift machine shop to even begin to get into crawling. All the mods I will be doing can be done with the tools I have... that's money in the bank.

supergroup_crawler · Post by **supergroup_crawler** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:21 am

SHAUN wrote:You can make the normal compound axial rock claws perform the same as the race ones in the video. Of course thats with the Race compound tires being stock and the normal compound tires having cut foams. I like my normal compound tires better than the race compound.

How big of a difference in flex is there between the two? Significant?

SHAUN · Post by **SHAUN** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:59 am

Not much. Even running on slick rock I still use my normal compound tires. Getting ready for a good size comp this weekend, I'll run both tires and tell ya how they do. I'm still going for the normal compound though.

supergroup_crawler · Post by **supergroup_crawler** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:13 pm

Boys and girls, the Scorpion is cool. It was fun to build and looks killer. It's gonna be another week before all the electronics get here so I can't test it yet. I started another micro crawler but I don't know if I have time to work on it with this new animal in my house.

frizzen · Post by **frizzen** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:53 am

Yesterday I broke down and bought one from a local Hobbytown for just under $250. Fun build, and it's so sweet looking.

Uh, how do I get the stink out of the tires/foams? B-17 Betty is a dirty girl who needs a bath!

So far I'm planning to run a TQ-3 with a 55t lathe motor and probably 6 cells. What would be the pimping suggestions on an ESC and servo? I want to keep it fairly cheap; but I'd like a rugged servo, and a fwd/rev speed control that will kill motor when the battery dumps. (I never liked chasing my Rustler when its battery puked and it took off full power uncontrolled until it finally ran into something bigger)

guerd87 · Post by **guerd87** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 3:01 am

i run a nosram patriot reverse ESC in my craweler with a 45t motor

works a treat, cheap and easy to program

i would say go something like a Tekin Rebel 2, work really good

SHAUN · Post by **SHAUN** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:11 am

frizzen wrote:Yesterday I broke down and bought one from a local Hobbytown for just under $250. Fun build, and it's so sweet looking.

Uh, how do I get the stink out of the tires/foams? B-17 Betty is a dirty girl who needs a bath!

So far I'm planning to run a TQ-3 with a 55t lathe motor and probably 6 cells. What would be the pimping suggestions on an ESC and servo? I want to keep it fairly cheap; but I'd like a rugged servo, and a fwd/rev speed control that will kill motor when the battery dumps. (I never liked chasing my Rustler when its battery puked and it took off full power uncontrolled until it finally ran into something bigger)

You wont get it out! I figured out that the foams smell more than the tires.

For a speed control these work really well, and they are water proof.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_i ... s_id=18916

For servo I run a JR ST126MG, its 126in/oz and metal geared. It holds up really well. It has a lot of torque and seems to be pretty fast to.

sg219 · Post by **sg219** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:18 pm

The ESC I recommend is an Mtroniks RV15 Viper.

Its waterproof and programmable. You can set the reverse!

VIPER - Viper RV15
Forwards & Reverse ESC <b>Viper RV15</b>
Direct from the UK, Mtroniks have designed the updated, more intelligent VIPER range of ESCs.

The series consists of forwards only, reversible & marine spec controllers handling every job you can expect from the latest state of the art technology.

* NEW built in failsafe to protect against complete loss of signal or when out of range (compatible with all manufacturers receivers)**INDUSTRY FIRST**
* ABSOLUTE short circuit and motor overload protection
* 15 turn motor limit
* Dual core microprocessor
* 4-8 cells input voltage
* Adjustable features include programmable punch on the forwards only range and programmable reverse (including disable) & programmable brakes on the reversible range
* 4 Layer super power circuit board
* Thermal integrated protection system
* Digital one touchset up
* Legendary 100% waterproof design
* Dimensions : L39.0mm x W34.0mm x H13.0mm
* Weight : 55g

All VIPER ESCs are capable of running the highest capacity cells available & the latest high spec motors. Each VIPER ESC incorporates a 1.2A BEC and the latest state of the art technology and GEN-Xi power FETs!

VIPER - ULTIMATE RELIABILITY

http://www.mtroniks.net/mtroniks_SC_pro ... tegoryID=2

I've been running it for a little over a year and it has treated me well!

Search around for the cheapest price. They run around $50.

A little on the cheaper side, but not as versitile are the MOPED ESC's.

# (RDS ON) In OHM At 25℃: 0.000032Ω
# Impulse Current of MOSFET's: 1980A
# PWM Frequency: 2K-4KHZ
# Turns: For 10-36 turns motor
# BEC Output Voltage: 5.0V (3A)

# Large built-in heat sink to cool the MOSFET
# Power boost circuitry maintains steering-servo voltage when battery power drops
# 4KHz switching smooth throttle response
# Smart braking
# Automatic brake(ABS)
# Real-time braking
# One-touch push button setup with LED for easy programming withoout requiring external devices
# 100% digital circuitry
# Heavy-duty power wires
# External solder tabs
# Quick start circuitry
# BCE voltage regulation
# Incredibly low resistance for higher speed and minimal power loss
# Lightweight and small enough to fit anywhere

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_i ... s_id=16386

There are a couple different models that are good, but this is the most common one that is used.

You can find it around from about $25-35.

I have one of these in m other truck and it does very well too. However I like the Mtroniks better because its waterproof, and the ease of programming. It also has the failsafe your looking for in an ESC.

Mtroniks baby!!

frizzen · Post by **frizzen** » Sat Sep 08, 2007 1:56 pm

Thanks guys, after carefully looking at all the suggestions, both of my Viper RV-15 arrived, I tossed one into my Traxxes Rustler and it made it a whole new truck! This is a wicked speed control, it fixed all the problems I didn't like about the rustler. I can't wait to get the rest of the stuff so I can finish building my AX-10.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:35 am

You know, after every radio I've tried with the HPI ESC had to have the throttle trim way off, and I realized it didn't have any kind of setup, I started thinking I wanted to upgrade my ESC. After pricing a few, that MTroniks seems like the best deal out there and its waterproof to boot. I was going to ask SG hows his holding up, but I guess he's still satisfied.

Hmmm, that RCmart one looks different, than the one at HobbyPeople, it only claims a 3.3k drive frequency. That's kinda low, most good ESCs are around 5k. The RCmart one seems to have replaceable wires, and claims a 4k drive frequency.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/159205.asp

supergroup_crawler · Post by **supergroup_crawler** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 10:24 pm

Stay away from the MOPED unless you want to risk it not working at all. If you do get one, grab one from CPE on RCCRAWLER. He's replaced two for me that didn't work... and I'd like to see you try that with the Chinamen.

SHAUN · Post by **SHAUN** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 1:55 am

I haven't herd much bad about the moped, what exactly happen when it failed?

supergroup_crawler · Post by **supergroup_crawler** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 2:58 pm

There is a 20 + page thread on RCCrawler about the MOPED. Not very good quality control from many accounts. They work for some people. It's a crap- shoot.

The two I got did nothing... not damn thing. The little yellow light just blinked real fast. I am waiting on my third one, hopefully it works. It's going in a scaler project with that old school Toyota body I posted earlier... that is, if it works.