Oh, No, LOOK what I went and did...

All discussions about 1:18 scale and up electric offroad RCs.
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LoRDDeVO2
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Post by LoRDDeVO2 »

Sorry I took so long to post Pics. I took pics when i got payaso's T a while back. Since then i did alittle modifications. Here is alittle before and after as it stands now.

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Team Helotes GP 6 cell 7.2 Pack
BRP Shocks
BRP Bulkhead stiffener
CrazyNut 5 Spoke aluminums
Losi Extended body Kit
Monster Factory Light kit (added toggle switch in back so I can turn running lights on and off)
Losi Street Treads in front
Losi Smashers in Back
New Era Racing Titanium Wheelie Bar
New Era Racing Titanium Bumper
GPM Titanium CVD Swingshaft

Damn you Payaso :-) for Starting me up on this shit haha
sg219
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Post by sg219 »

Thats lookin' sweet. :cool:

I can't wait to be able to drive mine and start putting on all those after market parts!!! I've been searchin' around and I think I'm headed the Brushless route with a SSG chassis and more. 8-)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... BIN_Stores

The whole kit 'n kaboodle!!!
payaso
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Post by payaso »

LoRDDeVO2 wrote:Damn you Payaso :-) for Starting me up on this shit haha

That's exactly the reason I wanted it to have a good home.... It should be treated like that...lol It's like a foster kid.





silla :D
payaso...... :)

"Imagination is everything. It's the preview to lifes coming attractions" -Albert Einstein
sg219
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Post by sg219 »

I finally got the pinions I ordered!! It was fun while it lasted. :sad:

I can't get the fuckin' pinion to stay on!! The torque from the motor is insane. :shock:

It pushed the plastic pinion off and started to melt a hole in the motor gaurd and ground half the pinion away!! Then when I tried to put it back on and run it on the speed checker for the hell of it, and to see if it would stay on, it spit it right back off!!

Do I need to put some super glue on it or some lock tite? It's really pissin' me off. :x

I also got some alloy pinions, but I need to order an adjustable motor plate and wait for the alloy spurs to arrive!! Plus, the damn alloy pinions won't stay on either. I already tried the lock-tite and it didn't work.

Am I doing something wrong?

:???: :x :???: :x
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Ahh5hit
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Post by Ahh5hit »

I can't remember, does the motor shaft have a flat spot? If so, maybe you can tap a really small hole on the pinion and get like a 2mm set screw and lock it that way.
sg219
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Post by sg219 »

Ahh5hit wrote:I can't remember, does the motor shaft have a flat spot? If so, maybe you can tap a really small hole on the pinion and get like a 2mm set screw and lock it that way.
Not that I noticed. Its splined. No matter what I do, they don't stay on!!

I will double check on the flat spot, but I'm pretty sure there isn't one. :search:
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hogjowlz
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Post by hogjowlz »

jbweld it onto the shaft then. it will come off if you really need to. sand the shaft a little bit and just drip a little bit of jb and put the thing on. wait 5-10mins or until its almost totally hard(hu huh huh) and run it in the car under no load and it should harden to perfect alignment.
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fawkes23
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Post by fawkes23 »

Sorry for the late reply Payaso, but right now I don't have a speed checker. I am running it 14/60 right now becuase that's all I have, and I believee I am still getting high 30's to mid 40's. I plan on ordering a GPM 57 tooth delrin spur, and I'm going to try to get an Xray M18 pinion set. I believe the set has 19-23 tooth. Acceleration will be hurt, but this will just be for speed runs. I believe with this setup I can get high 50's into the 60's. Gearing changes are very noticable with these little cars.
As far as the pinion, I would definately not JB weld it on there. Get a bottle of CA glue and that will hold it just fine. Right now I'm using superglue on my Ti pinion because the setscrew vibraed out (I should have used threadlock, and I need to get another one).
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LoRDDeVO2
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Post by LoRDDeVO2 »

fawkes23 wrote:Sorry for the late reply Payaso, but right now I don't have a speed checker. I am running it 14/60 right now becuase that's all I have, and I believee I am still getting high 30's to mid 40's.
Fawkes what kind of setup do you have .. Motor and pinions. I was thinking about brushless but i know the stock gearing will be chewed up no problem.. Didn't know if I should go metal on metal or plastic to metal.. heard mixed opinions about both.

Thanx
fawkes23
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Post by fawkes23 »

Well, I might as well post my full specs:

Castle Creations Mamba 6800 Combo
HPI Savage Radio System
Airtronics 94091z Micro Servo With Servo Saver
Promatch 6 Cell KAN Pack
Team Helotes 8 Cell GP 1100 Pack
Deans Micro Plugs
3Racing Ball Diff
3Racing Swingshafts
3Racing Graphite Front Chassis Brace
Team Orion Micro RS4 Titanium 14 Tooth Pinion
GPM "Mad Bashers" Rear Tires
Teflon Bearings
Team Losi Oil Shocks
Team Losi Shock Springs F/R

Actually I might be forgetting a thing or two, but that's about it. I am thinking about ordering a GPM 57 Tooth Derlrin Pinion, but they make it in alloy for 3-5 bucks more, but I too am not sure about metal on metal.
I plan on ordering the rest of 3Racing aluminum upgrades in the future. Right now I want the front and rear hubs/axle carriers. I have busted around 4 of them, and it will be cheaper in the long run to just go aluminum....
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sg219
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Post by sg219 »

Ya, aluminum is the way to go.

The project I have in mind is...

All SSG Silver Graphite for all the parts that don't move.

All Silver or Chrome aluminum parts for everything else.

As far as Pinions and Gears go, I'm not sure about whats the best way to go. A real car has metal on metal gears and such. So I think with the right lube and set up you can be able to use all metal gearing.


What kind of battery charger do you guys use and the setup involed in using it? Fawkes, Payaso, Lord, Ahh5hit, and whoever else has one here.
fawkes23
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Post by fawkes23 »

For charging my packs I use a Duratrax Pirhana Digital Peak Charger. It has a charging jack in the front, and I just run the positive and negative leads into it with a Deans Micro Plug soldered on the other end. It's a pretty good mid-level charger, I think I got mine for around 45 bucks. It's very adjustable, let's me set the amps, in intervals of .1 from 0 to 6 I believe. Also lets me set the MaH, and Delta Peak as well.
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sg219
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Post by sg219 »

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hogjowlz
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Post by hogjowlz »

well carbon is lighter so umm id go with that.
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SuperFly
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Post by SuperFly »

I'm going to differ with Mr. Jowlz and say go with the alloy. That's a vehicle that will get beat to shit, and I think the alloy will be more durable. I've busted a few carbon fiber H-plates on my mini-z, and I drive it only indoors on a very smooth surface. Okay, so I slam into the wall now and then, I still think the alloy is going to be more durable for a negligible weight penalty. Plus its $30 cheaper and coming from Oregon instead of Hong Kong.
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