bitPimps.lixlink.com

I almozt bought a Karmen Ghia once...until I tried to drive it, they really weren't designed for my 6'1" 275lb frame...

btw, that was mostly muscle back then ...uh, well, things may have changed a little since.




and I'm shorter too...apparently that really happens , who'd a thunk it?

frizzen wrote:Working Beadlocks are awesome! You do lose a bit of tire squish though.

Not sure what mod will be next... But I've traced the chassis and beadlock rings, might have more tuning holes in the future.

Hey Frizz,
I just got myself one of these for a birthday present too. What did you use for your pvc beadlock ring? dimensions etc...? Hope this doesn't sound like a vwdickhead question, but it sounds like a few people on that thread you linked to had dramas. Just wanted to grab some known good numbers and any tips you've got, before I hack on my gorgeous little rig!

Find the adapter coupler #51577 they mentioned, then walk around and find the female-female coupler in the BIGGER size of that adapter, then you just buy 2 instead of the 4.

0.435 inch works, but put a little bevel on both edges, it's a bit tight otherwise.

Drill vent holes in your rings, open up the holes in your rims.

I've made and mounted 2 sets on trucks, haven't done my green one yet but they've been made. Need to take my first try back off and give it a little more bevel.

Cheers Frizz-bomb!
Got my rears done today, I ended up using 20mm female-female couplers, one per axle. AU$0.79 each! Looks like the rings have to be about the same width as the rim, or maybe a hair narrower. I froze my rims to help break the CA holding the tyres on, worked OK, but not thrilled with it. Any tips on cleanly breaking CA glue?

Really hot water, almost boiling, drop the wheel in and let it sit for about 30 seconds then gently push the tire loose...oh yeah, wear gloves.

I dunno, I just firmly rolled them a few times to help break the CA, then picked one spot on the rim, and proceeded to gently rip it off by pushing the sidewall toward the other sidewall, once that popped, just work it around, then do the other side. Usually you find an area of thinner glue that gives up sooner.

Sorry mate, didn't realize you weren't on my continent and forgot you Aussies use french to measure things. Um, as converted on my chinese micrometer, width of 0.435" turns into 1.03 cm, 0.0103m ? *shrug*

frizzen wrote:I dunno, I just firmly rolled them a few times to help break the CA, then picked one spot on the rim, and proceeded to gently rip it off by pushing the sidewall toward the other sidewall, once that popped, just work it around, then do the other side...

Great description of what I did One of my front tyre foams suffered a little from too much CA, but I got them both ringed, solder-weighted and star-cut-foam this afternoon. I'm taking her out tomorrow, I'll try get some pictures of her in action! ***My build thread***

So, I got tired of the green one being a stocker to test mods against...

Rims each got: foams removed, six 1/16" vent holes drilled, then PVC beadlock rings with 8 holes 1/4" drilled in them, then came the lead shot.

Body drop, body trim, spring removal, switch relocate, some weight reduction up top, split the servo lead strands...

Lead is GOOD! but a volume equilivilent of #8 shot to 30 grains black powder is too much per rim. Motor gets too hot, but man it's stable!

ok, nobody is feeling the aluminum f-100 cab. Or nobody cares.

I think I'm gonna try a different route for a scaler... XK

Oh, I didn't see it...pretty cool. BTW, how are you gluing the panels together? Shoe Goo? I can't find any anywhere, I may have to break down and get some online.

Oh, and where did you find the donor?

Shoe-Goo for the panel adhesive, i think it's also labeled as E-6000. craft or hobby shops should have some. The Ford F100 is a Revell 1/24 model kit, fenders opened up after shaping and folded double for strength. (all edges where not glued to another panel are doubled over flat)

Now I'm leaning toward a Dollar Store rc hardbody that's been taunting me for a couple years...
a Jeep XK

2006 Jeep Commander. Rear overhang is tiny bit shorter than real, but gives a KILLER departure angle! Width and wheel arches were like it was made for the Losi.





Bring on some opinions.

that.... looks... AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!! i love it

i want one.

no, wait. maybe 2.


fuck it, gimme 17 of those fuckers!!

That does look like it was made for the Losi. Maybe make an exo-skeleton with some styrene rod and add a couple of military style gas cans on the back.