Best under $5 mod for the MLST
- crazydave
- bitPimp
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Best under $5 mod for the MLST
I had heard the stock wires were too thin, and can be a fire hazard, but I had no idea how thin they were. I thought maybe 20-22 guage, but after looking at the insulation I see its actually 24 guage wire. That is kinda thin even for a Mini-Z.
So I took the ESC apart and replaced the wire with some 14 guage Novak Super-Flex wire. It really was a bit nerve wracking, because back in my 1/10th scale days, I always read, "Never disassemble the ESC or Rx, send them to the factory for servicing." that coupled with the fact that the wire seemed massive in comparison to the PCB I was soldering to, made me really kinda nervous while doing it.
I hardwired the motors, and kept the leads short as possible. I cut the battery wire down to less than an inch, and installed a 4 pin Dean's plug on it.
I was hoping for a slight performance gain but wasn't expecting much, but holy crap, what a difference. It's so torquey that when I gunned it in my hand it tried to rip itself right out of my hand. On the ground the difference was noticable as well. It launches instantly, and now has enough torque to break the tires free on the low pile shag carpet. Which also altered the handling, its now less proned to flipping, and the rear end pitches out, letting slide it around to tighten my turning radius.
Anyone with a brand new MLST, this is the first mod they should do.

It looks much cleaner now too.

So I took the ESC apart and replaced the wire with some 14 guage Novak Super-Flex wire. It really was a bit nerve wracking, because back in my 1/10th scale days, I always read, "Never disassemble the ESC or Rx, send them to the factory for servicing." that coupled with the fact that the wire seemed massive in comparison to the PCB I was soldering to, made me really kinda nervous while doing it.
I hardwired the motors, and kept the leads short as possible. I cut the battery wire down to less than an inch, and installed a 4 pin Dean's plug on it.
I was hoping for a slight performance gain but wasn't expecting much, but holy crap, what a difference. It's so torquey that when I gunned it in my hand it tried to rip itself right out of my hand. On the ground the difference was noticable as well. It launches instantly, and now has enough torque to break the tires free on the low pile shag carpet. Which also altered the handling, its now less proned to flipping, and the rear end pitches out, letting slide it around to tighten my turning radius.
Anyone with a brand new MLST, this is the first mod they should do.


It looks much cleaner now too.
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- bitPimp
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Hey CD,
Where do you get your supplies? Like where can I get some extra wire? And what gauges do you recommend for the PCBs on the micro scales (like the ZZs) and the mini scales (like the Mini-Zs and up to the MLST)?
Thanks.
Where do you get your supplies? Like where can I get some extra wire? And what gauges do you recommend for the PCBs on the micro scales (like the ZZs) and the mini scales (like the Mini-Zs and up to the MLST)?
Thanks.
____________________________
There is no "Truth", only perceptions and deceptions.
There is no "Truth", only perceptions and deceptions.
- crazydave
- bitPimp
- Posts: 6874
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 9:05 am
- Location: Koolsville
Hmmm, good question. I got this from Stormer Hobbies. Nearly all hobby shops will carry 14 guage wire and Deans plugs, but larger wire has too much capacitance for the smaller current of Mini-Zs. What I'd reccomend is speaker wire in 20 or 22 guage for the power bearing wires from the batteries and to the motor. The other wires, some 24 guage stuff from Rat Shack should be adequate. For Bit and Zips I'd even go as small as 27 guage. I rob all my bit and zip wire from broken toys and radios.Namuna wrote:Hey CD,
Where do you get your supplies? Like where can I get some extra wire? And what gauges do you recommend for the PCBs on the micro scales (like the ZZs) and the mini scales (like the Mini-Zs and up to the MLST)?
Thanks.

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- bitPimp
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- Zenith
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