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I have an electric rustler, it has duratrax evader shocks, bearings, rpm rims a novak esc and currently, I'm running a 27 turn motor. But what always happens is I'm always stripping out spur gears. it happens constantly. I was wondering If I could buy a spur gear that is more durable. Would a HPI spur gear work on there? i saw it somewhere where someone had an hpi one on there. I was thinkin that it would be one of the ones for a savage. Does anyone have a solution for this or a better spur gear?


Thanks for any help,


John

If you are stripping spur gears, your gear mesh is fucked up!!

Traxxas gears are pretty damn durable.

If the plastic gear isn't for you, then buy an aluminum or steel spur gear. I don't know of anyone that makes steel spur gears for Traxxas, but you can try a search.

RC4WD makes an aluminum spur gear, but I think it is a bit high toothed for something like a Rustler.

I guess I'll give the savage spur gear a shot, i think that's what the kid had on his rustler. I probably need around 80 teeth. It's just that the traxxas gears (for the rustler) Don't have very much depth in between teeth making them very easy to strip out. And my mesh is set correctly it's just that it gets out of wack due to traxxas' bad planning. The motor is literally right up against plastic. I was thinking of a fix by taking a big washer and drilling 2 holes to put the screws through to help keep things in place . I have some washers on there now so it's plastic on steel. The plastic gets hot, which causes the screws to move which causes the mesh to get screwed up, so I just kinda contradicted myself, but it's alright because it's traxxas' fault.

trekbikedude wrote:I guess I'll give the savage spur gear a shot, i think that's what the kid had on his rustler. I probably need around 80 teeth. It's just that the traxxas gears (for the rustler) Don't have very much depth in between teeth making them very easy to strip out. And my mesh is set correctly it's just that it gets out of wack due to traxxas' bad planning. The motor is literally right up against plastic. I was thinking of a fix by taking a big washer and drilling 2 holes to put the screws through to help keep things in place . I have some washers on there now so it's plastic on steel. The plastic gets hot, which causes the screws to move which causes the mesh to get screwed up, so I just kinda contradicted myself, but it's alright because it's traxxas' fault.

When I hear someone bitching about a product that has been around for YEARS, I blame the user.

This time is no different.

I am involved and run in the crawler type of groups right now, and a lot of the people that have crawlers run the Magnum tranny in their trucks and don't have this problem. Especially not like you say the problem evolves.

Try using some GOOD motor screws and a drop or two of Loc-Tite.

I have NO problem with any of my Traxxas stuff. (except the damn drive shafts, but its due to the application, not he product)

ok, I'll use the loc tite and I do have good motor screws, they go in with an allen key. I kinda want a better spur anyway do they make spur gears out of delrin? That would be cool.

I'm gonna ride my bike up to the hobby shop tomorrow and buy a new front bulkhead for my mini t and a spur or the rustler.

I'll tell you guys about the spur when I put it on.

Just because they have an allen head on them don't mean shit.

You need the motor screws with locking washers on them. They hold very well!

Like these screws in the picture.......

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXMJE7&P=7

like he said, gear mesh and slipping screws.

could also be a plastic motor mount that allows flex? (never seen a rusty before, just guessing)

I don't think anyone covered this, if you have the black plastic chassis, when the motor gets hot it will make the plastic soft and allow the motor to move back. You can put a washer around your screw to fix this. Also do you know how to set a gear mesh?

Do this to your motor assembly.
No more worries, except getting the mesh right

Yeah thats what I ment to say, ibjamn has the good way to do it.

I used to strip gears on my Stampede like crazy, it was because of the plastic motor plate softening, the motor slipping, and messing up the gear mesh. Do as IBJ says, and make sure the mesh is set properly. I assume you know to leave a little play in it.

yea, that's the washer I was talking about in my previous post, did you guys just drill 2 holes in side of a big ol washer, Or did you buy that somewhere?

I'm Lovin the rusty but damn, I want faster. What's the best and cheapest brushless system for it? The speed controler and motor don't have to be made by the same manufacturer. I really want brushless speed, no maintenance! But I'm not sure. I want it to go somewhere around eh 40 mph. I currently have GP 3300 stick packs with deans plugs. I'm thinking that a t-maxx spur might work on there too.

As far as the washer, you can get it at any hardware store. That one is just stainless steel. You do have to drill holes in it for the motor mounting screws to go through. And depending on the diameter of the washer, you may have to shave a slight bit of it where the idler shaft area will meet.

As far as BL systems, the Novak 5800 SS+ set up I have does about that speed and I love it. I run IB 4200's in mine though, but in a rusty it should do great. You can get them for around 200 bucks at tower.
Go to Novaks site, and see if they have some refurbished sets, I hear they are just as reliable as new, but a good bit cheaper.

right now, I've got $170 is there any good brushless systems in that price range? Thanks for any help,


John

anyone?

any good 1/10th brushless systems for around 170$?

I'm running GP 3300 stick packs (Rustler)






Or should I just buy a mamba for my mini t???

That has IB 1400 matched cells.