My newly hopped up Mini-Z Enzo MR-02.

[Son_Gokou]

the h-plate is MEANT to account for vertical dampening, not the roll shocks. a stiff h-plate will make the car less resistant to bumps in the road. the symptom of this is your car running along, hits a bump and the REAR end goes up in the air whilst the front end stays on the ground.

think about it, if the roll shocks were meant to account for vertial shock then why have the top damper spring???

besides, you compare a 3-pack of typical carbon fibre h-plates, you get thin, med and thick. all three have similar vertical play. try twisting them, now you find a difference. QED

so really, you don't want a soft h-plate, you want a THIN h-plate. this ensures the roll shocks focus on doing their job.

I agree with you on the stiff rear suspension, but I account for everything being stiff in that case, ie: not just the h-plate. If your roll shocks are too tight OR aren't exactly vertical the rear end won't sit even and yes you loose traction then. this can happen when using the longest wheel base position on the chassis and not having a u-bracket LONG enough to keep the roll shocks vertical. the stock kyosho u-bracket isn't long enough for the longest wheelbase setting using TOPCAD carbon fibre h-plates. this was an issue I had early on.

I don't think the front suspension would have anything to do with the spinouts whilst running in a straight at 2/3 speed. It's the rear end. My tyres are taped with double sided tape but they are still spinning off during top speed straight runs. This is part of the issue that I'll fix buy glueing the tyres I guess....

The ball diff is set fine. You set your ball diff to give just a little on a full throttle take off from a standing start. Too much slip will loose it. Pinions have nothing to do with it dude, you're pulling shit out of your arse now.....

ph2t.

#1: If the h-plate is too stiff, then it won't twist....the h-plate has to twist in order for any "roll shocking" (lol ) to happen....

#2: when did I say that the roll shocks were meant to account for vertical shock?? I didn't. Also, first you say that the h-plates weren't meant to account for rolling suspension, then you say that when you twist them, you find a difference. Well, in order for any roll shocks to be compressed, the h-plate has to be flexible enough so that the springs can be compressed.

#3: If the front suspension is too soft, then more weight can easily push down on the front wheels, giving them more traction. harder springs will ensure that during weight transfer effects (under acceleration, weight transfers to the back, under stopping/decelerating, weight jerks to the front), less weight is on the front (meaning less ensured traction) and more on the rear (ensuring more traction). So, if you have hard springs in the front and softer in the rear, then that could solve your spin out problems. Plus, with wheel spinning, if the front tires are SLIGHTLY turned...even 1 degree...then the car will spin out!!!

#4: Bigger pinions= less torque, less force trying to break the tires free of traction.

#5: I'm not pulling shit out of anywhere, and how can you label what I'm doing? I just tryed to help you, and you bitched and said I was "pulling shit out of my arse".

[Son_Gokou]

blah blah blah

my ideal rear end setup would be:

narrow carbon h plate
oil damped roll shocks with hard springs
oil damped rear shock with NO spring

i think the h plate provides plenty of up down spring, just needs damping.

#1: DAMN, you got there just b4 I posted. Fucker!

#2: I agree with your rear setup, but I'd add a med/soft spring for the rear oil damper....

And BC, c'mon dude....post pics of the underside of that biatch!

[Ahh5hit]

The stock MR-02 comes with a plastic H plate and a normal friction shock. I added the carbon fiber H plate and the Kyosho oil shock.