My newly hopped up Mini-Z Enzo MR-02.

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Ahh5hit
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My newly hopped up Mini-Z Enzo MR-02.

Post by Ahh5hit »

All alloy parts, diff., wheels, clear chassis, carbon H plate, Xspeed motor, ball bearings, and oil shock and springs.
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hogjowlz
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Post by hogjowlz »

how much you put into her?
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hue35
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Post by hue35 »

Asshole.
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SuperFly
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Post by SuperFly »

I hate you.
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Ahh5hit
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Post by Ahh5hit »

Damn, such hostility. With the combined cost of the original kit and all of the extras....around $370.

I also have alloy "stock" looking wheels too.

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Finks
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Gahh I crapped my pants again :oops:
Suck My Bits
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:twisted:©2005 Finks fucked your girlfriend in highschool inc
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hue35
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Post by hue35 »

What brand are those alloy parts, and where'd you get them? That chassis is fuckin' beautiful... man, you gots the best shit.
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Ahh5hit
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Post by Ahh5hit »

All alloy parts are from GPM. Some came from Dinball and others from minizstore. Ihave preety much put all of my marbles into Mini-Z's now, but I still do "collect" the Zips and will do a few customs here and there including something I have planned for one of the new Xmods.
Son_Gokou
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Post by Son_Gokou »

Fuck, Ahh5hit....that chassis is just smooth man. I like the alloy motor mount...pretty shiny. Also, I love MM, such better handling than the RM mount....Even that differential is shiny...Damn man...I wish I had a job to afford all this shit....

Another pimpin ride.
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Post by ph2t »

dude, how do you find the handling of the mr02 in comparison to the mr01?

cheers,

ph2t.
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Ahh5hit
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Post by Ahh5hit »

ph2t wrote:dude, how do you find the handling of the mr02 in comparison to the mr01?

cheers,

ph2t.
I have never had an MR-01, so I couldn't really tell ya. I just started messing with Mini-Z's when the MR-02's came out. I do plan on purchasing a MR-01 so I can run some of those bodies, but I know that's not the answer you are looking for. Sorry :-?
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Post by ph2t »

Ahh5hit wrote:
ph2t wrote:dude, how do you find the handling of the mr02 in comparison to the mr01?

cheers,

ph2t.
I have never had an MR-01, so I couldn't really tell ya. I just started messing with Mini-Z's when the MR-02's came out. I do plan on purchasing a MR-01 so I can run some of those bodies, but I know that's not the answer you are looking for. Sorry :-?
That's alright mate, I appreciate it anyway.

I was doing some track time on the weekend and the main issue I have is handling. There is no use in me trying to increase my max speed at the moment because the car just spins out if the throttle is applied too quickly, even when I'm already running a 2/3 full speed.

The mr01 has the U-plate setup for it's roll shocks, this accounts for your roll force. The mr01 h-plate IDEALLY covers vertial shock and shouldn't retard any rolling force (that's for the roll shocks). Then you finally have the top mounted damper that is meant to introduce a proper damping effect on any vertial force. The h-plate by itself is too stiff/springy....

now with all that out of the way, lol....(credits to betty for the theory)

the mr02 has a totally different design, and like most things, unless you have it right in front of you, it's not that easy to figure all out.

I believe the mr02 is the ONLY racer chassis that has an oil damper for the top shock. Is the yellow shock in your pics oil based? from the looks of it's size it appears so. the mr02 appears to have no U-bracket setup, possibly it doesn't need it? how does it account for roll? I can't see the setup of the h-plate in any pic so I don't know.

with this scale, handling is soo important, especially when you're really going down the aftermarket route and pushing a LOT of boundries. I mean shit, I got this 7" little car zipping along at about 35kph on bitumen and I'm having handling issues, lol, I wonder why....???

cheers,

ph2t.
Son_Gokou
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Post by Son_Gokou »

ph2t wrote:
Ahh5hit wrote:
ph2t wrote:dude, how do you find the handling of the mr02 in comparison to the mr01?

cheers,

ph2t.
I have never had an MR-01, so I couldn't really tell ya. I just started messing with Mini-Z's when the MR-02's came out. I do plan on purchasing a MR-01 so I can run some of those bodies, but I know that's not the answer you are looking for. Sorry :-?
That's alright mate, I appreciate it anyway.

I was doing some track time on the weekend and the main issue I have is handling. There is no use in me trying to increase my max speed at the moment because the car just spins out if the throttle is applied too quickly, even when I'm already running a 2/3 full speed.

The mr01 has the U-plate setup for it's roll shocks, this accounts for your roll force. The mr01 h-plate IDEALLY covers vertial shock and shouldn't retard any rolling force (that's for the roll shocks). Then you finally have the top mounted damper that is meant to introduce a proper damping effect on any vertial force. The h-plate by itself is too stiff/springy....

now with all that out of the way, lol....(credits to betty for the theory)

the mr02 has a totally different design, and like most things, unless you have it right in front of you, it's not that easy to figure all out.

I believe the mr02 is the ONLY racer chassis that has an oil damper for the top shock. Is the yellow shock in your pics oil based? from the looks of it's size it appears so. the mr02 appears to have no U-bracket setup, possibly it doesn't need it? how does it account for roll? I can't see the setup of the h-plate in any pic so I don't know.

with this scale, handling is soo important, especially when you're really going down the aftermarket route and pushing a LOT of boundries. I mean shit, I got this 7" little car zipping along at about 35kph on bitumen and I'm having handling issues, lol, I wonder why....???

cheers,

ph2t.
Some of the handling characteristics have to do with where the motor might be mounted. if the h-plate is too stiff, then it won't let any suspension to be based on the springs in the dampening system. If you're using a roll shock, then you should get a really soft h-plate so that some of the suspension characteristics can come from the roll shock, and not be "retarded" by a really stiff h-plate.... Also, if the rear suspension is too stiff, it may keep some crucial weight off the rear during weight transfer effects....Which may lower the traction in the rear wheels. Have you tried making the front suspension harder and the rear suspension softer? Some of the handling may also be coming from how tightly/loosely the ball differential is set, or how much torque you have in the system (try fucking around with the pinion sizes and the ball diff settings)

P.S.....BC, can we see some pics of the underneath? (hint: h-plate, and what the motor mount looks like underneath? :-) )
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Post by ph2t »

the h-plate is MEANT to account for vertical dampening, not the roll shocks. a stiff h-plate will make the car less resistant to bumps in the road. the symptom of this is your car running along, hits a bump and the REAR end goes up in the air whilst the front end stays on the ground.

think about it, if the roll shocks were meant to account for vertial shock then why have the top damper spring???

besides, you compare a 3-pack of typical carbon fibre h-plates, you get thin, med and thick. all three have similar vertical play. try twisting them, now you find a difference. QED

so really, you don't want a soft h-plate, you want a THIN h-plate. this ensures the roll shocks focus on doing their job.

I agree with you on the stiff rear suspension, but I account for everything being stiff in that case, ie: not just the h-plate. If your roll shocks are too tight OR aren't exactly vertical the rear end won't sit even and yes you loose traction then. this can happen when using the longest wheel base position on the chassis and not having a u-bracket LONG enough to keep the roll shocks vertical. the stock kyosho u-bracket isn't long enough for the longest wheelbase setting using TOPCAD carbon fibre h-plates. this was an issue I had early on.

I don't think the front suspension would have anything to do with the spinouts whilst running in a straight at 2/3 speed. It's the rear end. My tyres are taped with double sided tape but they are still spinning off during top speed straight runs. This is part of the issue that I'll fix buy glueing the tyres I guess....

The ball diff is set fine. You set your ball diff to give just a little on a full throttle take off from a standing start. Too much slip will loose it. Pinions have nothing to do with it dude, you're pulling shit out of your arse now.....

ph2t.
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betty.k
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Post by betty.k »

blah blah blah :-D

my ideal rear end setup would be:

narrow carbon h plate
oil damped roll shocks with hard springs
oil damped rear shock with NO spring

i think the h plate provides plenty of up down spring, just needs damping.
i used to be cool
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