Bilbo's Newest Toys fresh from the paint shop.

BilboBaggins · Post by **BilboBaggins** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 9:21 am

Not my best paint jobs, but I was trying new paints (Faskolor) and a new airbrush/compressor (Testers Mighty Mini) and had some problems.

First up 1/36th scale.

My Micro T
Only mods so far are BRP bearings and BRP Classic Hauler Body.

I wanted to keep it simple so just a pin stripe accents the Pearl Green Paint.

I took a Bic marker (couldn't find my box of sharpies) to accent the lines but my arthritis kicked in.

I'll redo them when it wears off.

Next is my RC18B (now T)

The only mods to this one so far are the RPM front bumper and ProLine Crowd Pleaser 2.0 Body. Team Losi Street Tires on Associated Rims.

Yes, green again (painted at same time as Classic Hauler). I had to put my driver's name on the door.

Now the Mini T

I haven't done anything to this yet. But I have a load of Purple Anodized parts and bearings to go on it.

The colors are Faskolor's faschange color change paints. The main color is Faschange purple (undercoated in black) and the flames are faschange Blue undercoated in White.

I had a load of problems using the Mighty Mini Compressor and Testers airbrush with the Faskolor paints. I found out it doesn't put out the pressure needed for them. Most airbrushes are rated for use in the 15-30 psi range (my new Paasche is rated up to 50) and the Faskolor recommends starting at 40 psi.

I still have a few bodies at home (A buggy for the RC18B, Trinity Brew Hauler and a cool 50's panel delivery for the Mini T and a BRP Stadium truck for the Micro T) to paint.

Now to the track.

Maxximum Attack · Post by **Maxximum Attack** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:12 am

That mini-T really does it for me. I love that PJ. Not the fat bodylines so much. It probably would have come out alot cleaner without them. Can they be wiped off with alcohol?
Throw some white wheels on that badboy.

The crowd pleaser is also well done. The green/silver/white is a great combo. Nice choice

Maxx

BilboBaggins · Post by **BilboBaggins** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 11:27 am

Maxximum Attack wrote:That mini-T really does it for me. I love that PJ. Not the fat bodylines so much. It probably would have come out alot cleaner without them. Can they be wiped off with alcohol?
Throw some white wheels on that badboy.

I used to use lighter fluid as a cleaner. What was the old drag racers line. Gasoline is for washing parts and alcohol is for drinking. I can wipe off the lines with a towel or thumb also, just haven't done it yet.

I will be putting new wheels on it soon. Need some street tires for my back alley test track. Hmmm. Maybe some purple wheels to go with the rest of the purple parts the wife got for me.

Maxximum Attack wrote:The crowd pleaser is also well done. The green/silver/white is a great combo. Nice choice

I like simple schemes, and the bodylines for the Crowd Pleaser body fit it well.

I really have to get a picture of the wife's Classic Hauler for the other Micro T (yeah, she took my backup truck

). Dark purple with pearl purple flames. She used Pactra Rattle cans.

I also painted a Buggy body with Pactra Rattle Cans, Pearl Purple with white lightning bolts.

I kept the spoilers clear for the 18th scale trucks because I felt it they were painted they would distract from the body. I have to get some screws today to do the Mini T, it's held on by strapping tape.

I did put some strapping tape under the mounting holes to keep the paint from scratching off there.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:26 am

Marker comes right off lexan with just about anything, rubbing alcohol, windex, 409, whatever. You know bilbo, I know you said you were having ttrouble with your arthritis, and I feel for ya, some days I can't make a straight line to save my life, but personally I'd go ahead and wipe those marker lines off, they're detracting from otherwise nice paint jobs.

I with maxx, that Mini-T is the one that really does it for me, though I do like the looks of that Proline body.

BilboBaggins · Post by **BilboBaggins** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 4:00 pm

crazydave wrote:Marker comes right off lexan with just about anything, rubbing alcohol, windex, 409, whatever. You know bilbo, I know you said you were having ttrouble with your arthritis, and I feel for ya, some days I can't make a straight line to save my life, but personally I'd go ahead and wipe those marker lines off, they're detracting from otherwise nice paint jobs.

I with maxx, that Mini-T is the one that really does it for me, though I do like the looks of that Proline body.

I think I'll wipe the lines, or make them thinner. On slot cars I used to do the lines and wipe the body to keep the line in the groove.

Right now I'm working on the Micro T. Damned steering linkage. I'm using a ziptie to fix my broken and the wifes bent steering arms. I think I may be doing the ball linkage in the future. I had put the bigger pinion on mine and was having fun on the carpet track until teh linkage broke. Two times I've had the truck on that track and two times stopped by the linkage.

ibjamn · Post by **ibjamn** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:26 am

I rather like the lines on the outside. They do look a bit thick in some spots, but it gives the body a bit more definition.
You could try the craft stores. I got an artist pen size S, from Hobby Lobby. It's basically a permanant marker that is very fine. It's what I used on my vanquish. They have different sizes, and colors, so I am sure you could find one for the small detail lines

BilboBaggins · Post by **BilboBaggins** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:53 am

ibjamn wrote:I rather like the lines on the outside. They do look a bit thick in some spots, but it gives the body a bit more definition.
You could try the craft stores. I got an artist pen size S, from Hobby Lobby. It's basically a permanant marker that is very fine. It's what I used on my vanquish. They have different sizes, and colors, so I am sure you could find one for the small detail lines

I have a few different artist pens/markers but most I've tried wouldn't work on lexan, works on painted surfaces but not hard plastic. I'm going to pull the bunch out an see what works best. I'm still leaning to very fine tip sharpies and a careful wipe of the excess. I did wipe some of the excess off the mini t and it looks a little nicer.

I'm going to try out my newest compressor (got the regulator/filter just need the hose to connect the two) this week on another body for the Mini T and Micro T that I have sitting around.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:01 pm

I think I'll wipe the lines, or make them thinner. On slot cars I used to do the lines and wipe the body to keep the line in the groove.

Yeah, make 'em thinner, that'll be better.

Personally, I've never been a fan of drawing panel lines on Lexan bodies. Its too black. Door lines aren't really black on cars, they're shadows. It just don't look right to me. That's why I like that wash technique Superfly does on bits, it just gives the lines some shadow. Unfortunately most lexan bodies don't have deep enough lines to do that technique. I gave up on doing the lines on lexan bodies a long time ago, but if I don't have decals I'll do window frames still. Just my personal preference.

TheMechanic54 · Post by **TheMechanic54** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:08 pm

I don't know if it's still available, but back in the old days when I did mods on my HO slot cars I used very fine pin stripping. Worked great, I have a nomad wagon that I'm thinking about using on my bits that still has the tape on it after about 35 years