He said he wanted Green
- crazydave
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He said he wanted Green
Now who would I be painting a body for, that would insist on Green?
I let you guys figure that out.
So here's the story. Its a Tamiya TG10 Raybrig NSX. I wanted to stick to a race theme, but wanted to work some flames in there, and make it crazydave-ish. When I saw the real car it was basically what I already planned, so I stuck with that, but you know, green. This was a tricky paint job to mask, because I haven't done many graphic that wrap all the way around, and because I was copying a real scheme, so it had to match, and line up right. I spent about 16 hours drawing, cutting and placing paint mask. I used some vinyl Parma masking film on the hood, because of all the texture from the vents, and on the flatter areas, I used Tamiya masking tape.
If you guys seen my post over in the paint forum you'll know I've been having issues with my airbrush. So after all that work, I was nervous to start painting. I put it off for a few days, then finally worked up the courage. I always practice on posterboard before I hit the body, and the black was laying pretty good. Not as good as I had it, but good enough for what I was gonna do. Then when I went to hit the body, it started pulling it stop/start stuttering shit again. I got black everywhere, and there was no pure white. I wiped some out, and thought it looked alot better, but when I laid the white I saw black speckles every where, the shading ended rather abrubtly in spots, and there was a a thumb smudge. I was so pissed. I wanted to throw my airbrush away, instead, I smacked some RCs around. After gathering myself, I trudged on, I went over my airbrush again, and discovered that amonia seems to disolve teflon tape, and my head assembly was leaking again. So I have to redo that after every color, until I get a hold of some beeswax ro seal it. I shaded in the blue on the graphics, and the airbrush was working wonderfully again. Almost made up for the other crap. Almost. Then when I laid the Pearl Key Lime, it just jumped out, and looked gorgeous beind the blue shading. Now I am satisfied, and so's SG.
So all said and done, I think it looks really good, and my problems were rather insigficant. I gotta get over this perfection thing. Its good to strive for, but it can't be the end all, life or death thing.
I let you guys figure that out.
So here's the story. Its a Tamiya TG10 Raybrig NSX. I wanted to stick to a race theme, but wanted to work some flames in there, and make it crazydave-ish. When I saw the real car it was basically what I already planned, so I stuck with that, but you know, green. This was a tricky paint job to mask, because I haven't done many graphic that wrap all the way around, and because I was copying a real scheme, so it had to match, and line up right. I spent about 16 hours drawing, cutting and placing paint mask. I used some vinyl Parma masking film on the hood, because of all the texture from the vents, and on the flatter areas, I used Tamiya masking tape.
If you guys seen my post over in the paint forum you'll know I've been having issues with my airbrush. So after all that work, I was nervous to start painting. I put it off for a few days, then finally worked up the courage. I always practice on posterboard before I hit the body, and the black was laying pretty good. Not as good as I had it, but good enough for what I was gonna do. Then when I went to hit the body, it started pulling it stop/start stuttering shit again. I got black everywhere, and there was no pure white. I wiped some out, and thought it looked alot better, but when I laid the white I saw black speckles every where, the shading ended rather abrubtly in spots, and there was a a thumb smudge. I was so pissed. I wanted to throw my airbrush away, instead, I smacked some RCs around. After gathering myself, I trudged on, I went over my airbrush again, and discovered that amonia seems to disolve teflon tape, and my head assembly was leaking again. So I have to redo that after every color, until I get a hold of some beeswax ro seal it. I shaded in the blue on the graphics, and the airbrush was working wonderfully again. Almost made up for the other crap. Almost. Then when I laid the Pearl Key Lime, it just jumped out, and looked gorgeous beind the blue shading. Now I am satisfied, and so's SG.
So all said and done, I think it looks really good, and my problems were rather insigficant. I gotta get over this perfection thing. Its good to strive for, but it can't be the end all, life or death thing.
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Not really. I threw a big crybaby temper tantrum, just like I keep yelling at my 7yo not to do when things don't his way. Patience does not run in my family.sidewinder wrote:Wow, you obviously have more pactience than I do, great work.
I do go on a vendettas when I get pissed. If something pisses me off, I will get the last word, and this one pissed me off, so...
Got a hook up on that?clint wrote: instead of beeswax, maybe try rubbing the needle with medea superlube. I've been having good luck with that stuff and the teflon seals.
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a tube came with my AB..but it seems pretty cheap anywhere online.crazydave wrote:Got a hook up on that?clint wrote: instead of beeswax, maybe try rubbing the needle with medea superlube. I've been having good luck with that stuff and the teflon seals.
http://www.utrechtart.com/dsp_view_prod ... item=95061
i use it everytime i'm ready to store the ab and between dark->light color changes. on the needle, trigger mechanism and nozzle.
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Clint wrote:a tube came with my AB..but it seems pretty cheap anywhere online.crazydave wrote:Got a hook up on that?clint wrote: instead of beeswax, maybe try rubbing the needle with medea superlube. I've been having good luck with that stuff and the teflon seals.
http://www.utrechtart.com/dsp_view_prod ... item=95061
i use it everytime i'm ready to store the ab and between dark->light color changes. on the needle, trigger mechanism and nozzle.
Tip drying, is that when the paint clots up on the tip? Cause I have that problem a lot. Definately gotta pick up some super lube.Apply in the needle cap and along the needle to enhance paint flow and prevent tip drying.