micro-t build
- Clint
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micro-t build
My #2 micro-t wasn't as fast as my first one...actually it was pretty slow comparitivly speaking. I swapped out motors, batteries, loosened the diff..no change..runtime sucked too. so then i figured it was the circuit board and decided to try the brushless route that appears to be ever so popular.
basic combo so far:
homebrew dragon plate chassis 1/32" (adjustable length up to 3/4" longer than stock to accomodate other bodies)
feigao 22mm
futaba 3108 servo
mamba esc
75mhz gws rx

Still waiting on the fullriver lipo from indoorflyer, but so far it's going together well. I dont even have bearings yet anyway.
Figures, I did find out why this micro-t wasnt as fast as my other one. The original motor screws were slightly longer than normal and were rubbing the armature. A couple tiny washers did the trick.
At least i know the board isnt bad, i'll end up using it in something else.
slipped on some tamiya 1/32 wheels for a test fit.

basic combo so far:
homebrew dragon plate chassis 1/32" (adjustable length up to 3/4" longer than stock to accomodate other bodies)
feigao 22mm
futaba 3108 servo
mamba esc
75mhz gws rx

Still waiting on the fullriver lipo from indoorflyer, but so far it's going together well. I dont even have bearings yet anyway.

Figures, I did find out why this micro-t wasnt as fast as my other one. The original motor screws were slightly longer than normal and were rubbing the armature. A couple tiny washers did the trick.

At least i know the board isnt bad, i'll end up using it in something else.
slipped on some tamiya 1/32 wheels for a test fit.

- Clint
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90% done.
- still have to charge the lipos and make the pack.
- solder in a tap for the castle link (oops)
- ream out the holes in the motor mount to fix a slight gearbox cover misalignment.
- general cleanup

(yeah i forgot about the castle link)

(instead of swapping gears, i just cut a hex into it)

(dragonplate, single 1/32" sample piece to make top and bottom plates)

(so far so good)
- still have to charge the lipos and make the pack.
- solder in a tap for the castle link (oops)
- ream out the holes in the motor mount to fix a slight gearbox cover misalignment.
- general cleanup

(yeah i forgot about the castle link)

(instead of swapping gears, i just cut a hex into it)

(dragonplate, single 1/32" sample piece to make top and bottom plates)

(so far so good)
- crazydave
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- Clint
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Might not need them. Check out this dampening.betty.k wrote:crikey!!![]()
that's just a set of oil shocks away from being the ultimate micro t!
http://www.v6power.net/clint/mwhq.net/m ... shocks.3g2
Tiny piece of silicon fuel tubing and a dab of mobil 1 synth grease.
This should hold me over until prices on the atomic shocks drop to near
sane levels.
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- Clint
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I brushed it on with a foam painters brush from the dollar store. Uneven doesnt seem to matter..just get a few layers on it. In between coats i hit it with the hairdryer, I did 4 coats then let it try 24 hours.crazydave wrote:Nice work. Did you spray or brush the mask on? I tried some liquid mask once, but I was brushing it on, and it was so uneven I wasn't sure if it would work, so I peeled it off, but I've been tempted to try it again in the airbrush.
Found a nice xacto knife at the store today that has a tip that freely rotates, should work well for scoring curves in the mask.
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