1/36 Team Losi Micro-T

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 8:52 am

richh wrote: i need to open mine up. it runs, but no wheelies and the drivetrain feels "tight". if you push the truck on the ground the rear wheels will not turn. i checked the gear mesh and it was way too tight so i loosened it up a bit but it still needs work. i read some had problems with the diff being too tight; i'll take a look at that next.

I first pulled the trigger on mine when it was off the ground. I heard some resistance, but then it quickly sped up. I sat it on my bed and it promptly pulled a backflip, I knew it was gonna be good. My diff is snug, made for a kinda wide turning radius at speed, it was ok when I slowed down. I'm gonna pull that apart and see if a little grease helps smooth it out. But its not a bad thing. It feels like a tightly adjusted ball diff that needs to be broke in, so I think once the gears loosen up a bit it gonna be perfect.

RCdabbler · Post by **RCdabbler** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 3:12 pm

I picked up a set of bearings and the screw kit which I felt was a absolute must it has some of the E clips for the wheels in there.

I was going to get a whole bunch of parts for a little project but decided to just get another truck instead it really was less expensive that way.

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 4:51 pm

Hey y'all-

I'm about to order up one of these, and was wondering if anyone who already has one can let me know which extras/parts I should get while I'm ordering.

Bearings and screw kit as RCdabbler mentioned. Anything else? Anything that looks like it will break easily?

Maxximum Attack · Post by **Maxximum Attack** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 5:38 pm

SuperFly wrote:Hey y'all-

I'm about to order up one of these, and was wondering if anyone who already has one can let me know which extras/parts I should get while I'm ordering.

Bearings and screw kit as RCdabbler mentioned. Anything else? Anything that looks like it will break easily?

I'm seeing reports that something in the steering is breaking on impacting the front wheels. I'll go do some surfing then PM you the definate answer

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 7:07 pm

Maxximum Attack wrote:
SuperFly wrote:Hey y'all-

I'm about to order up one of these, and was wondering if anyone who already has one can let me know which extras/parts I should get while I'm ordering.

Bearings and screw kit as RCdabbler mentioned. Anything else? Anything that looks like it will break easily?
I'm seeing reports that something in the steering is breaking on impacting the front wheels. I'll go do some surfing then PM you the definate answer

The steering arms are thin flexable plastic. One of mine gave out out for no aparent reason in the first run, but keep in mind the scale and that these are thin, flat, flexable pieces of plastic. You could easily make new ones, out of plastic packaging, Lexan would also be ideal, but you could use whatever. You could even adjust the length to play with toe in.

The steering arm problem is no big deal, practically a non-issue, pay no attention to whiners out there that can't figure it out for themselves.

Full review coming very soon. I'm just trying to get some halfway decent pics, I really need a decent light.

Scorpion · Post by **Scorpion** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 9:44 pm

As far as i've heard most people are fixing their steering with zipties, seems to be working good for them and cheap to.

RCdabbler · Post by **RCdabbler** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:47 am

yeah just looking at the tierod that people are breaking you can see how easy it would be to make one.

it really is not an issue.

LBRC · Post by **LBRC** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 9:55 am

Oh happy days an Epoch/Micro-T section

When installing the ball bearings a healthy supply of spare E-clips is almost mandatory, I’d recommend ordering a screw set along with the ball bearings.

Been playing around with battery options.

2P E-Tec 210 cells for 3.7V 420mAh
The good: -5 grams weight savings, vastly improved runtime.
The Bad: Slower

195mAh 4.8V NiMH Split Pack
The good: +45 mAh equaling approx +2 minutes of runtime, noticeably more torque on hills.
The Bad: +2 grams weight, moves COG up and forward.

You could also do this as a 5 cell option for a 150mAh or GP 160mAh pack.

My thoughts on the Micro-T
Fast and fun but things are going to break, and people are going to start bitching and moaning, no use telling them that that’s what truggies and buggies do, especially at the surprisingly fast stock speeds either. Smash one of the wheels into a chair leg at top speed and you have a good chance of breaking something but then what would you expect, 10 mph x 1/36 scale = what 360 scale mph? Just as an experiment try smashing any 1/10 scale truggy at 36mph into an immovable object, or better yet a 1/1, ok it won’t do 360 so just get going as fast as you can before slamming the wheel into something.

It may be obvious but over tightening the screws already seems to be a major problem when people are working on these. Stopping by a LHS I ran into a moron who in one breath was complaining that he had to tighten all the screws on the car he bought and the next about his links breaking, screws stripping, and battery cover screws where bad. One of those ethical dilemma’s do you enlighten him? Or see if he can figure it out on his own? The shop owner not being a small car fan I decided that defending the scale was the best course of action and proceeded to point out that the broke off battery cover screw was caused by trying to force a coarse thread flathead into the machine thread battery cover screw hole, and that sure just like breaking a wire off by holding it in a pair of pliers and bending it back and forth when you tighten the steering arm screws down the plastic will indeed break, grabbing a handy demo car off the counter I explained that the ~1mm gap was intentional and necessary so that the arms could move freely. Needles to say Moron wasn’t too happy with me. (Note; I'm not usually an asshole, in public at least, but Stupidhead's whining pissed me off.)

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:10 am

so tell me, you think there's potential to make a 4wd using 2 rear ends?

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:21 am

betty.k wrote:so tell me, you think there's potential to make a 4wd using 2 rear ends?

I knew there was a reason why I bought 2.

LBRC · Post by **LBRC** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:52 pm

I suppose anything is possible the problem as always is the steering mechanism and knuckles, you could rig something where the whole front end or both ends pivot.

Bird · Post by **Bird** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:37 pm

It's funny you guys brought that up... I was at work this morning, and my mind was wandering through a bunch of different stuff, and it hit me... as prolific as Losi has been in releasing new vehicles lately... how far off is the Micro LST?

ibjamn · Post by **ibjamn** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 7:47 pm

I am waiting to see a crawler modded 1/36.
ZZMT cut in half, the micro-t tranny in the middle, electronics in the front, battery in the back

Bird · Post by **Bird** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:03 pm

Heh... me and SG have been talking about something like that in 1/18th for ages using a mini t tranny and vmg axles...

sg219 · Post by **sg219** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:23 pm

Bird wrote:Heh... me and SG have been talking about something like that in 1/18th for ages using a mini t tranny and vmg axles...

Just need the VMG axles. Anyone got some?