bitPimps.lixlink.com

Notch and drill the alum tube to fit inside the upper shock eyelet.
Cut a peice of narrower tube and screw it back into the lower shock eyelet using the original micro-t shock shaft.

Add a dab of silicone glue around the head of the micro t shock shaft and let it dry(this will work as the seal) Heat shrink will probably work well too. Slap some grease inside the upper section of the shock and re-assemble.

Pros: shock size is any length you want, thick tubing holds plenty of grease, seal doesnt shorten your shock travel, it's cheap.

Cons: finding tubing that fits inside eachother smoothly. (I'll try to get the
measurements of the tubing, this is standard stock lhs stuff)

That's awesome. I love your DIY fixes. But honestly, I'm probably too lazy to do that and will find some aftermarket shocks to bolt on.

Your just so damn smart, you can think of anything, I'll be doing this, I don't have the cash for the up grade shocks.

Vary cool clint I like that and the tut to thanks a ton this is one build I am going to do right away!

How does it drive with the new dampers?

Murdoch wrote:How does it drive with the new dampers?

Built the rest of them tonite. They work great. Had to seal the top of the
shock with silicone as well so the grease doesnt ooze out. Front is using
xmod gear grease, rears are using mobil1 synth grease.

On a custom chassis the rear shocks can get tricky as the control arm
travel limit depends on the stop within the shock. So you have to make
the upper portion of the rear shocks a little longer than the originals or
the shock will fall apart on a jump.

I dont think this affects stock chassis-i'll have to check my other micro-t.
It might just be because the rear arms dont rest on my cf chassis. But
now I have adjustable downstops on the back end to keep it together.

Is that an Alum Spacer on the top of the back shocks?

Did you just drill a hole in the alum tub to screw in the top part of the shock? and how did you mount the bottom tube to the bottom part of the shock?

Lastly The silycone you put around that bottom part that rubs the inside of the larger tube to keep the grease in?

sorry about all the questions just want to build them right!

Yeah, it's just an aluminum spacer on the rear. the silicone(plumbers goop) creates a really airtight seal even without grease. vaseline(xmod gear grease) lubes it up nicely.
Thick grease probably wont even need silicone glue.


Dimensions:
3/32nd diameter brass tube inside of 1/8th diameter alumimun tube.

This pic should give you a good idea.


Here's a pic of the quick and dirty rear downstops. depending on the length,
you can raise/lower the rear end. I have it set up so that the max
shock travel will not allow the rear of the chassis to bottom out, and that
the front and rear of the truck are level. If I make another cf chassis I'd
just leave ears on the cf chassis plate there, for the arms to rest on.

Cool Beans man thanks for the detail pictures that helps a bunch! I am going to go to work on my own this evening!!!