so how fuckin awesome are these micro ts?
- hogjowlz
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so how fuckin awesome are these micro ts?
seems i could pick one up locally for 80bucks. some kids have a bmx track down at the park. would one of these be pretty sweet on it?
how do they run stock?
or should i just flip the extra 20 for a mini t?
how do they run stock?
or should i just flip the extra 20 for a mini t?

- betty.k
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- crazydave
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The Micro T to me is the most awesomest RC ever, but that's me.
The reasons why I love it is because its fast out of the box, its small enough that you can make your own custom mods, and there's plenty of bolt on parts.
You could easily make this Ripper7 chassis yourself, its just two plastic plates. I got this from ph2t, but I'm gonna try to make my own graphite one when I get around to it.

A Mini T might be alot more fun if you got the room (I don't), but the $99 one needs a lot of stuff. Like a rechargable battery and charger for one. You'd be better off getting a Mini-Baja for $159. That's less than I have into my Micro-T and the baja has an extra set of tires, FM radio, better ESC and servo than mine.
The reasons why I love it is because its fast out of the box, its small enough that you can make your own custom mods, and there's plenty of bolt on parts.
You could easily make this Ripper7 chassis yourself, its just two plastic plates. I got this from ph2t, but I'm gonna try to make my own graphite one when I get around to it.

A Mini T might be alot more fun if you got the room (I don't), but the $99 one needs a lot of stuff. Like a rechargable battery and charger for one. You'd be better off getting a Mini-Baja for $159. That's less than I have into my Micro-T and the baja has an extra set of tires, FM radio, better ESC and servo than mine.
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- crazydave
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Ha! We own you.hogjowlz wrote:god damn you fuckers!! i try to get out and they pull me back in!!
i went to the shop up the street and now its charging.

The FETs are similar to Mini-Z/Xmods, so the Nellies and IRF7317s will work. The stock FETs are decent, and already in a 2x4 configuration, so the PCB already has some decent power handling.
Knowing you, you're gonna break a steering tierod in a about 2 seconds. So before you do it'd be good save one as a template. Any thin piece of plastic will do, but I'll tell you Nylon guitar picks are the best. Make sure they're Nylon. They're stiff when you want them to be, and they'll bend in half if you need them to, but they don't break.
LBRC and ph2t have posted some good info here, and there's a bunch more at Ripper's, so you better do some reading, and get caught up.

- hogjowlz
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hmm i charged her up and the motor kicks in until i let go of the throttle and then becomes unresponsive. the steering is unaffected tho. when it did run i was able drive it around until it hit a patch of grass and then the motor would become unresponsive again until i turn it off for a minute then it works slightly again. is something shorting or is something really fubar? the shop is just up the street so returning it for another shouldnt be any problem.

- SuperFly
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I haven't done any tweaking on mine, but I heard some of the screws on the diff assembly are too tight, and loosening them just a hair helps. Don't know if that's related to your problem or not.hogjowlz wrote:hmm i charged her up and the motor kicks in until i let go of the throttle and then becomes unresponsive. the steering is unaffected tho. when it did run i was able drive it around until it hit a patch of grass and then the motor would become unresponsive again until i turn it off for a minute then it works slightly again. is something shorting or is something really fubar? the shop is just up the street so returning it for another shouldnt be any problem.
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- BilboBaggins
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My original Micro T would run for a minute and then die. After turning it off and on it would run again. The problem was the ESC was defective. I got it replaced by the LHS I bought it from.
Fix the steering links and pick up the screw set and "OH" Jesus Clips (E-Clips) and maybe a few other of the part sets until you decide to make your own or go aluminum.
Fix the steering links and pick up the screw set and "OH" Jesus Clips (E-Clips) and maybe a few other of the part sets until you decide to make your own or go aluminum.
Sitting at my workbench in my comfortable little Hobbit hole.
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- ibjamn
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You'll love that little thing. It can go more places and go faster than a mini-z or xmod, parts are easier to get (most of the LHS carry losi stuff
)and it puts my mini-t to shame. Ripper's site has loads of stuff (like they said earlier)
There is a trick to loosening the diff, cycling the batteries and breaking the motor in.
1.Loosen the diff screws a tad-they are too tight.
2.Charge the battery.
3.Hold the micro-t in your hand and hold one rear tire to keep still.
4. go 1/3-1/2 throttle foward for the duration of the charge.-recharge
5. Go 1/3-1/2 throttle in reverse for the duration of a charge.-recharge
6. Hold the opposite wheel still, and do steps 4 and 5.
you can put light wieght oil in the diff and bearings to help the process too, but that thing is super tiny!
You should feel that the diff is a lot looser, and the run time will be better.
I had my dad do it, and he has had better performance those areas, than I had with mine. I just didn't do this with mine, and now I get low run times. I don't know if the batteries are no longer good, or the motor is worn already. The motor sounds a lot different when in reverse( sounds like the brushes are worn to me)
The best inexpense upgrades are the bearings, better springs (I used Xmod-t red upgrade shock springs), and cut the rear part of the body for easier access to the charge plug.
Then get the expensive axles to get rid of the e-clips on the wheels. I haven't done that yet, as I can't bring myself to pay 1/10 price for a 1/36 scale part

There is a trick to loosening the diff, cycling the batteries and breaking the motor in.
1.Loosen the diff screws a tad-they are too tight.
2.Charge the battery.
3.Hold the micro-t in your hand and hold one rear tire to keep still.
4. go 1/3-1/2 throttle foward for the duration of the charge.-recharge
5. Go 1/3-1/2 throttle in reverse for the duration of a charge.-recharge
6. Hold the opposite wheel still, and do steps 4 and 5.
you can put light wieght oil in the diff and bearings to help the process too, but that thing is super tiny!
You should feel that the diff is a lot looser, and the run time will be better.
I had my dad do it, and he has had better performance those areas, than I had with mine. I just didn't do this with mine, and now I get low run times. I don't know if the batteries are no longer good, or the motor is worn already. The motor sounds a lot different when in reverse( sounds like the brushes are worn to me)
The best inexpense upgrades are the bearings, better springs (I used Xmod-t red upgrade shock springs), and cut the rear part of the body for easier access to the charge plug.
Then get the expensive axles to get rid of the e-clips on the wheels. I haven't done that yet, as I can't bring myself to pay 1/10 price for a 1/36 scale part

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