Extend your controller's charging time X2
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- bitPimp
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Extend your controller's charging time X2
As seen in our Articles section...
This is a mod I have done to be able to double the charge time on your controller. It is good for those times when you're out in the trenches and you need an extra charge. This was done an the Aussie release of Bits known as the Compact Char-G.
Here's how it is done:
First, open up the case of the controller. The screws are located in the locations marked by the red boxes.

Be careful how you open it, there are very small and fine wires inside that connect the battery/charger and antenna to the main board. The side with the antenna is the side that acts like a hinge when you open the
controller. It won't open the other way, the wires won't allow it.

Remove the two screws marked in the red boxes to be able to remove the PCB from the casing.

Now lets find the timing cap, this is the part we want to replace with another cap of greater value. You can see below the picture showing two black canisters. The one on the left (marked as C12) is the one we want to remove. These parts are known as electrolytic capacitors.

Now the original cap is marked as being a 47uF, that's microfarads people. For this exercise I've decided to change the 47uF to a 100uF cap.

To remove the old cap locate the solder pads on the underside of the PCB and melt them with a soldering iron. Pull out the opposite leg of the cap each at a time and you will have a set of solder pads that look like this,
nice and clean and ready for new solder......

You can see from the pic below that the -ve terminal is "meshed" so one can differentiate between -ve and +ve terminals, this is needed because the capacitors we are using only work in the one voltage/current direction.

Taking note of the polarity of the capacitor make sure you put it in the right way, making sure that +ve and GND are all ok.
Here's the finished product.

And no one will know the difference, below you can see the cap through the semi-clear plastic covering of the controller.

The capacitor I chose was based on a very quick calculation. The original cap was 47uF, this factored to a 53 sec charge time. I replaced with a 100uF cap and got a 2 minute charge.
I'm yet to test how this affects available runtime, will post info soon.
ph2t.
This is a mod I have done to be able to double the charge time on your controller. It is good for those times when you're out in the trenches and you need an extra charge. This was done an the Aussie release of Bits known as the Compact Char-G.
Here's how it is done:
First, open up the case of the controller. The screws are located in the locations marked by the red boxes.

Be careful how you open it, there are very small and fine wires inside that connect the battery/charger and antenna to the main board. The side with the antenna is the side that acts like a hinge when you open the
controller. It won't open the other way, the wires won't allow it.

Remove the two screws marked in the red boxes to be able to remove the PCB from the casing.

Now lets find the timing cap, this is the part we want to replace with another cap of greater value. You can see below the picture showing two black canisters. The one on the left (marked as C12) is the one we want to remove. These parts are known as electrolytic capacitors.

Now the original cap is marked as being a 47uF, that's microfarads people. For this exercise I've decided to change the 47uF to a 100uF cap.

To remove the old cap locate the solder pads on the underside of the PCB and melt them with a soldering iron. Pull out the opposite leg of the cap each at a time and you will have a set of solder pads that look like this,
nice and clean and ready for new solder......

You can see from the pic below that the -ve terminal is "meshed" so one can differentiate between -ve and +ve terminals, this is needed because the capacitors we are using only work in the one voltage/current direction.

Taking note of the polarity of the capacitor make sure you put it in the right way, making sure that +ve and GND are all ok.
Here's the finished product.

And no one will know the difference, below you can see the cap through the semi-clear plastic covering of the controller.

The capacitor I chose was based on a very quick calculation. The original cap was 47uF, this factored to a 53 sec charge time. I replaced with a 100uF cap and got a 2 minute charge.
I'm yet to test how this affects available runtime, will post info soon.
ph2t.
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damn ph2t!
excellent tutorial - when I get the balls, I might try it but soldering that fine is some serious skillz brutha - great job.
Let us know your results.
excellent tutorial - when I get the balls, I might try it but soldering that fine is some serious skillz brutha - great job.
Let us know your results.
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.
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- bitPimp
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It helps if you have the tools. I've got this rubber bulb like thing with a teflon tip. It's basically a solder sucker that helps get rid of excess solder on the pads.
I'll do some timing tests this weekend and let you know.
I did a quick search for you pimps at your RadioShack. The part number of a suitable cap is 272-1028, a 100uF Axial Electrolytic Capacitor.

ph2t.
I'll do some timing tests this weekend and let you know.
I did a quick search for you pimps at your RadioShack. The part number of a suitable cap is 272-1028, a 100uF Axial Electrolytic Capacitor.

ph2t.
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Awesome
That is a hella great tutorial with awesome pics!!!!
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good job man. my friend has this soldering iron that has a hollow tip and the back of the iron is hooked up to this electric pump that sucks the solder away. the tip gets really hot so its also great for burning the laquer off of coil wires.ph2t wrote:It helps if you have the tools. I've got this rubber bulb like thing with a teflon tip. It's basically a solder sucker that helps get rid of excess solder on the pads.
cabo doggy dogg: im pretty sure you can buy solder wick at radiosnack. its a little trickier than these fancy do-dads but it works.
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RS
Ive seen solder braid ( used to remove solder) as well as the solder "bulb" that he used( kinda like a nasal sucker you use on a baby), both at radio shack.
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man its been so long since I've been there I guess I'll have to go back - sounds like they got all sorts of new stuff.
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.
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addiction
recently my addiction has made me goto RS like every day just buying small little crap to use... toggle dwitch here, battery holder there, solderin stuff here, new ZZ FF2 stuff there... LOL i bought the solder braid for like $2 i think.... I even found the small rare earth magnets there and bought themand upgraded my dual cell ZZ steering with them( was like $1.79 for 2 that used together equaled the original size)
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cool
lol
I keep looking at these huge magnets that pick up 50 pounds.
could you imagine - you could hit a telephone pole and your wheels with stay in the direction you put them lol
plus your car would hit light speed anytime it went near metal
... hey now I'm thinkin "crash tests" lol
lol
I keep looking at these huge magnets that pick up 50 pounds.
could you imagine - you could hit a telephone pole and your wheels with stay in the direction you put them lol
plus your car would hit light speed anytime it went near metal
... hey now I'm thinkin "crash tests" lol
Dear Life Cereal, Where do you get off? Part of a balanced breakfast and delicious? Who do you think you are? By now you may have guessed I'm speaking ironically and have nothing but good things to say about what you do. Life cereal do not change a thing.
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- bitPimp
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My bro-in-law and I ran two Compact Char-G's together using a fresh pair of alkalines in each controller.
Unmodded 27Mhz S2000 - 0:02:45 runtime from 0:00:53 charge.
Modded 40 Mhz Skyline - 0:06:10 runtime from 0:02:10 charge
Both bits contain the stock 60mAh NiCd's.
The results make sense for the increased charge time.
ph2t.
Unmodded 27Mhz S2000 - 0:02:45 runtime from 0:00:53 charge.
Modded 40 Mhz Skyline - 0:06:10 runtime from 0:02:10 charge
Both bits contain the stock 60mAh NiCd's.
The results make sense for the increased charge time.

ph2t.
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