JB weld

MaxximumRC · Post by **MaxximumRC** » Fri May 23, 2003 11:02 am

I have searched the Forums and I can not find the JB-weld mod. What is it, how do you do it, and what does it help.

Post by **CaboWabo** » Fri May 23, 2003 11:44 am

hogjowlz needs to write the tutorial - this is his mod

JB Weld · Post by **JB Weld** » Fri May 23, 2003 11:49 am

I'd be curious on his useage with my products...

I expect a good write-up.

-JBW

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Fri May 23, 2003 12:11 pm

jbweld is epoxy with steel filings mixed into it. i suggest getting jb kwik since it takes 20mins to harden compared to 6hours with regular jbweld.

my "jbweld mod" was originally a fix for when your rear axle nolonger stays in the chassis due to being removed too many times. then i found that the fix actually made your car run tons better than brand new. as a matter of fact i redid my latest bit last night with jbkwik.
edit due to new discoveries by superfly
any steel infused epoxy should work fine for this
benefits
smoother and easier acceleration. quieter ride. longer runtimes. no slipping axle. improved steering at high speeds. straighter driving.

step 1: rear axle wheel removal twist and pull of both wheels on your axle. if the drive side doesnt want to come off then leave it on but definatly remove the non drive wheel and clean all the plastic/glue out of the threads of the axle. mix just a little bit of jbweld on a piece of cardboard or paper or whatever. i use a qtip with the cotton torn off to mix the compounds. just dab a little on the hole on the wheel and a little on the axle and reinsert the axle back into the wheel. it will be dry enough to continue after about 10mins if you are using jbkwik.

step 2: preparing the chassis first make sure your recently glued axle is the right length still. if it is then mix up some more jbweld since the last batch will be hardened by now. use more than you did for the axle.

step 3:the tricky part smear the stuff all along the axle crease and kinda shove it down where the axle will go. you wana fill the axle crease pretty good but not to the point where its spiling out the sides.put the idler gear back on. tear off a piece of paper or scotch tape and put the axle into the crease and put the tape or paper between the gear and the chassis(this is so you dont get epoxy in the gear teeth). lay down a little more jb over the axle and kinda start rotating the axle by hand to keep it free. with jbkwik it will be almost hard after about 10mins and try to rev the motor while its drying. it probably wont go anywhere and this is where you will think "hogjowlz is an idiot". if so keep moving the axle by hand until the jb is pretty much hardened. charge your car up a cycle or two and hold the fwd button on your transmitter(feel free to put something heavy on the button so you have both hands free). grab your car and push it across the table or whatever surface so it makes the rear wheels spin fast. you will have to do this a few times until the axle starts moving on its own(kinda like starting a lawnmower). once it does just let the car sit there like that for 20mins. then do the same but in reverse this time. repeat that as much as needed. then rev fwd and reverse back and forth rapidly for a while. now shes ready to be road tested.

at this point you should start to see what im talking about if you did everything right. do not use wet lubes you will get hair stuck in there and you will have to cut the jb out and redo it. just blow some graphite in there once in a while. also this mod takes a few days to a week of "breaking in time" before it really starts to hit its peak.

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Fri May 23, 2003 2:16 pm

I was going to post this as it's own thread, but I'll leak it here. Loctite (sponsor of one of the Skyline Racing bodies) makes a product called epoxy putty. I have a picture of the package that I'll link later. Anyway, this stuff looks like the large-size Tootsie Roll, but with a spiral swirl of two different components, like a bundt cake. This stuff is the shiznit for this mod, and when Hogjowlz tries it, he will be done with JB Weld. You slice off about a 1/4" length of this stuff and work it for about a minute. It will have the consistency of a slightly stiff playdough. You then have about 3-4 minutes to pack it into the axle slot, put the axle in, and pack it around the axle. You can use the flat side of a screwdriver to sculpt it flush with the chassis. It dries hard in about 5 more minutes, and it's the same color as the chassis.

I credit hoggy with the inspiration for the concept, but I think working with putty is way easier and cleaner than a liquid for this mod. It does do wonders for handling and smoothness issues.

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Fri May 23, 2003 2:38 pm

well you may be correct. i use jbweld because of the metal matrix within it after it dries for added strength. jbweld is a lighter gray and jb kwik is the same color as the chassis(almost). its not quite liquid its pretty thick but i wouldnt wana get it allover my hands if i can help it. ive seen the loctite stuff before and im sure it would work just as well or close enough. how does that stuff work for body putty?

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Fri May 23, 2003 2:43 pm

I think it would be too hard for body putty. The stuff dries like steel (it even says so on the package!) If you tried to sand it smooth with the body plastic, the plastic would sand much quicker and be uneven with the putty.

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Fri May 23, 2003 2:46 pm

then they make this which would probably be better than both products. now i gota find it.

http://www.loctite.com/catalog/product. ... ine=FMFSSP++++++++++++++

Post by **CaboWabo** » Fri May 23, 2003 3:19 pm

dudes, you need to hit up a hardware store, they gots all that schizzle...
for rizzle

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Fri May 23, 2003 3:20 pm

ive seen the stuff in the tube but not the jar
i always thought jb was the one and only steel epoxy

payaso · Post by **payaso** » Fri May 23, 2003 3:21 pm

hogjowlz wrote:then they make this which would probably be better than both products. now i gota find it.

http://www.loctite.com/catalog/product. ... ine=FMFSSP++++++++++++++

That looks like the shit right there...

silla

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Fri May 23, 2003 5:04 pm

I think that's probably the same stuff I've been using, in a different package. BTW, the stuff I use is called Weld-Stik, and you can get it at most auto parts stores or hardware stores.

http://www.autobarn.net/rodi/3mlocwelstik.html

kwikbb · Post by **kwikbb** » Sat May 24, 2003 6:32 pm

ok, so this my 2nd jb weld excursion... the first was my pullback axel thing!

don't have any jb kwik, i know i know next time i'm at HD i'm all over the shit lol! so this time it'll take an eternity, but hopefully it'll be worth it

i'm doing the procedure on my bit-zap, which creates a bit of a different situation. instead of filling the whole crevis (because there is none), it's 2 blobs on each end of the axel (pictures manana, to better illustrate). it couldn't handle the high rpms i guess and wore out REAL kwik.

update to follow... not shortly i'm afraid

-word

bdebde · Post by **bdebde** » Sun May 25, 2003 1:26 pm

Thanks hog for a great mod! I just did the JB mod on my two cell Zip Zap with shen PCB. I used the regular JB so I had to wait. This thing was already my fastest 2 cell. With red Zip Zap gears it still burns rubber no matter what motor I throw in it. After the mod it seems even faster, I haven't clocked it yet though. It is also super quiet now, all you hear is the whine of the 3.5 motor as it goes by!

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Mon Jun 02, 2003 12:16 pm

word. i got some putty last week and i dont think the putty works as well as the jb for this mod. jbquick gets my vote as best epoxy for this particular job.

the putty is great but the liquid stuff seeps into all the little areas and totally surrounds the axle to form a better "tube". if you only have the putty it works well enough to where i wouldnt complain but my jbkwik car just smokes anything else(it has the high gear ratio as well). it goes straighter than anything else ive seen. even when it flips it flips straight. it seriously wants to take off. it goes 12feet in about 1 - 1.5seconds now. i took out the voodoo stuff and am using mainly the force.