my "lame-o" ZZM mods...
- civicsr2cool
- bitNinja
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- bitNinja
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- crazydave
- bitPimp
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It looks like you need to shave at the steering arm too. I shaved alot off of it. Left it pretty thin. Don't know if you can see that in the pic.Nasphere wrote:I also did this mod.Clint wrote:nice, i had to trim my tx to 55% D/R to accomodate the wide radius, with some work on the knuckles i got it up to 75%. i'll have to finish it up like yours if i want 90-100% servo movement.
Although the results were discouraging. I found the weight balance to be more of a concern with most of the weight towards the rear of the truck, and with no differential, this mod does almost nothing to the turning radius. However, with my 'mid-motor' setup, it transfers a fairly even weight distro of 45% to the front and 55% to the back, which DEFINATLY helps with the turning radius, not to mention it's climbing ability.
I'm just guessing your not getting as much steering as me, because you have the taller tires, and I had to shave at the sides of the chassis too, because the tires rubbed on the chassis.
That's interesting about the midmotor. I wonder if a forward mounted third cell would give the weight transfer needed.
I've already been thinking a chassis stretch should help keep it from pulling wheelies all the time.
- crazydave
- bitPimp
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I suppose that might work too.SuperFly wrote:I've been thinking about the usual SuperFly easy route, and thinking about sticking a small lead weight up under the front bumper. My LHS sells them for pinewood derby cars that would work just right.
Screw it, I'm stretching the chassis, I've already made semi-plans.
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- bitNinja
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To quote Clint again:
EDIT: wow am i stupid, excuse me...
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=6871
D/R means dirt/road, usually a trim knob on a regular propo TX, which also means your not running a stock radio... I-waver maybe? If so, i'de like to see how ya hooked up the feedback potentiometer and everything else about the steering...Clint wrote:nice, i had to trim my tx to 55% D/R to accomodate the wide radius, with some work on the knuckles i got it up to 75%. i'll have to finish it up like yours if i want 90-100% servo movement.
EDIT: wow am i stupid, excuse me...
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=6871
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- crazydave
- bitPimp
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D/R = Dual Rate. What he's saying is, he had to minimize the throw of the steering, and after trimming his knuckles, he was able to increase the the amount of steering.Nasphere wrote:To quote Clint again:D/R means dirt/road, usually a trim knob on a regular propo TX, which also means your not running a stock radio... I-waver maybe? If so, i'de like to see how ya hooked up the feedback potentiometer and everything else about the steering...Clint wrote:nice, i had to trim my tx to 55% D/R to accomodate the wide radius, with some work on the knuckles i got it up to 75%. i'll have to finish it up like yours if i want 90-100% servo movement.
EDIT: wow am i stupid, excuse me...
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=6871
I think you already figured out the rest.
EDIT: I just remembered, I had partially FET modded my steering when I first got my MT, and was trying to figure out the FETs. That could be helping pull my steering to full lock, after I did the trimming job.
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- bitNinja
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- Clint
- bitPimp
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crazydave wrote:D/R = Dual Rate. What he's saying is, he had to minimize the throw of the steering, and after trimming his knuckles, he was able to increase the the amount of steering.Nasphere wrote:To quote Clint again:D/R means dirt/road, usually a trim knob on a regular propo TX, which also means your not running a stock radio... I-waver maybe? If so, i'de like to see how ya hooked up the feedback potentiometer and everything else about the steering...Clint wrote:nice, i had to trim my tx to 55% D/R to accomodate the wide radius, with some work on the knuckles i got it up to 75%. i'll have to finish it up like yours if i want 90-100% servo movement.
You hit a max on what you can cut out of the chassis to make the steering radius shorter. I hit a point on mine where it turned nice and tight, but then I lost the internal support of the steering rod. It would get caught up at full lock and fall off the knuckle. So I had to glue some supports back into place, which negated the benefits.
What we need to do is move the steering rod above the servo and above the knuckles. Then you can cut as much as you want out of the chassis.
Ive got a few ideas I want to try out, something more traditional of larger r/c's. Just using a single steering arm to move both wheels is a bad design. The knuckles need to be tied together, and then a use steering rod to move the whole assembly. Much less slop this way.
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- bitNinja
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I'm not visualizing what you're saying, I see the arm bieng over the knuckles, but how would you add an arm to control that. Ball joints are almost non-existant at this scale... Also with an 'extra' arm, it will increase play. The smartest approach that I can see is using the old school push cart steering design (rod attatched to servo, pokes through plate with a slit attatched to steering arm).Clint wrote:What we need to do is move the steering rod above the servo and above the knuckles. Then you can cut as much as you want out of the chassis.
Ive got a few ideas I want to try out, something more traditional of larger r/c's. Just using a single steering arm to move both wheels is a bad design. The knuckles need to be tied together, and then a use steering rod to move the whole assembly. Much less slop this way.
Is it possible to make the ZZM articulate correctly without centering the drive shaft? the driveshaft is near impossible to move because of the way they're built...
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- bitPlaya'
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That mod is ingenious. I'm going to have to try it.
Hmm...now all I need is an iWaver compatible potentiometer that I can attach to the steering, and I can wire mine for fully proportional control!
Also, I should mention that the only articulated ZZMT I have seen had the transfer axle moved to the center. You'll likely need a jewler's saw, a dremel, a plethora of drillbits, and a bottle of asprin.
EDIT:
You should post a tutorial of this mod. You'd likely be cannonized for it.
Hmm...now all I need is an iWaver compatible potentiometer that I can attach to the steering, and I can wire mine for fully proportional control!
Also, I should mention that the only articulated ZZMT I have seen had the transfer axle moved to the center. You'll likely need a jewler's saw, a dremel, a plethora of drillbits, and a bottle of asprin.
EDIT:
You should post a tutorial of this mod. You'd likely be cannonized for it.
Lithiums are great!
Triple the speed...
four times the duration....
And they explode if you crash them too hard!
GWS 4 EVR
-my future car's bumper vanity plate
Triple the speed...
four times the duration....
And they explode if you crash them too hard!
GWS 4 EVR
-my future car's bumper vanity plate
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- bitNinja
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Hell, i did some more... Same truck of course.
First i cut out the front a little more.
Modded out one of these:
Checked clearances.
Didn't work, so I cut a little more out. It fits!
Added an SE board shortly after:
After the addition, I took this short, crappy video:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGa ... 292&pos=23
First i cut out the front a little more.
Modded out one of these:
Checked clearances.
Didn't work, so I cut a little more out. It fits!
Added an SE board shortly after:
After the addition, I took this short, crappy video:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGa ... 292&pos=23
Whack!
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- bitNinja
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I've run into a snag... If you watch the movie, that little turn at the start is lock to lock... It will need some serious feedback reconstruction. I think an op amp as a rate controller should work. I've tried adding 3K resistors to each side, I even tried 5K and the steering is still crap... So an op amp (set as a de-amplified buffer) to rate the steering should work.
EDIT: Holy shit!! I just weighed this thing! 32.4g on the front and 33.1g on the rear!! I've achieved a 50/50 weight distro!!! WOOHOOO!!! lol that's freakin awesome!!
EDIT: Holy shit!! I just weighed this thing! 32.4g on the front and 33.1g on the rear!! I've achieved a 50/50 weight distro!!! WOOHOOO!!! lol that's freakin awesome!!
Whack!
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- bitNinja
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