bitPimps.lixlink.com

I love that mod....but i want something for hard core crawling.

Im thinking of a 4 link set up, but im not sure how to do it.
I want to add only minimal amout of stuff to the ZZMT like trying to not make a whole new chaissis. I do not mind cutting and adding rod for 4 link tho.

Any ideas?

Thanks

You want a 4linked ZZMT using the stock chassis?

Yea pretty much...LOL

I don't mind cutting or addind rod tho

I'll bet you could, it wouldn't be easy and you'd have to remove qite a bit of plastic but

Maybe cut the front and rear away, and build out from the center, you could hold the axels together with a strip of plastic and let them pivot at the gear some breath right strips could be cut to make really flexable springs

I never planned on building a crawler zap but maybe I'll get back to you on this idea

thx man ill let you know what ill do

Some good link ends might be the ones you get in the adjustable tierod set for the micro-T. I would make a new chassis, it would take a few minutes with the dremel and you would be tons happier.

Don't want to scare you off, it'd be VERY cool to make. At *BEST* you're definately looking at a new chassis there. Sure you could probably make a vertical plate chassis using parts of the tub, but you wouldn't gain anything from doing that.

You have no axles, the shafts just rest in the chassis and their parts aren't hooked together at all. You have no transfer case/center transmission whatever you'd rather call it. You'd have no driveshafts.

Honestly I was thinking the way to do it would be try making a Clod or Nylint style axle. Hear me out, I know somebody makes gearmotors that are ZZ-M can size, 1.201" long and turn like 10 RPM. (I've got one on my desk and wish I'd bought the other from my friend before he moved to alaska) Motor mounted vertically, mount old driveshaft gears onto its output, drive each axle straight off that. Probably need a FET stack on the board to handle dual motor, or upgrade PCB. THrow in a better steering motor while you're at it.

Since it's already this far, make a torsion chassis, bump it out to maybe a 3" wheelbase, flip the rim offset for 2.6" wide, throw in some lead, maybe star-cut the rim inner bead.

Uh, not that I've had ideas rattling around my head about building it...

Yea you know....Can i have subtitles in english please? lol

anyway i think i found something, it is so easy it is dumb.

All i looking at was moving the ESC forward about 1/2" and cut it sraight down. It wont make it longer but it will let you have articulation with stock charger. Also i have to make my drive shaft a little bit longer becuase my front gears are sliping and i don't know why. If the front wheels get hung just a little bit it slips.

Critters wrote:All i looking at was moving the ESC forward about 1/2" and cut it sraight down. It wont make it longer but it will let you have articulation with stock charger.

Might work but you'll probably end up with some play and/or binding. The antenna mod works, try it but add a bearing and another sleeve in the rear to keep the axle from walking. Will work about as good as a 4 link but much easier. You can use the stock charger with this mod just don't remove the stock charger tabs when you mod it.



To 4 link even just the rear you will need to add a drive shaft with u-joints. I used square tubing as the slip joint but my u-joints didn't have enough deflection to them to really take advantage of the 4 link.

Critters wrote:Also i have to make my drive shaft a little bit longer becuase my front gears are sliping and i don't know why.

Because you need to shim it. Probably both f/r pinions. If you shim one or the other the un-shimmed one will slip regardless of which one is slipping now.

Once you've shimmed your pinions the rear axle will start slipping if you're putting real reduction to it and will need to be shimmed a couple ways.

redrustbucket wrote:

Critters wrote:All i looking at was moving the ESC forward about 1/2" and cut it sraight down. It wont make it longer but it will let you have articulation with stock charger.

Might work but you'll probably end up with some play and/or binding. The antenna mod works, try it but add a bearing and another sleeve in the rear to keep the axle from walking. Will work about as good as a 4 link but much easier. You can use the stock charger with this mod just don't remove the stock charger tabs when you mod it.



To 4 link even just the rear you will need to add a drive shaft with u-joints. I used square tubing as the slip joint but my u-joints didn't have enough deflection to them to really take advantage of the 4 link.

Critters wrote:Also i have to make my drive shaft a little bit longer becuase my front gears are sliping and i don't know why.

Because you need to shim it. Probably both f/r pinions. If you shim one or the other the un-shimmed one will slip regardless of which one is slipping now.

Once you've shimmed your pinions the rear axle will start slipping if you're putting real reduction to it and will need to be shimmed a couple ways.

Sorry for my ignorance here, RedRustBucket, but could you or anyone else capable explain what the shimming process is and why it is needed under what circumstances? Thanks.

redrustbucket wrote:

Critters wrote:All i looking at was moving the ESC forward about 1/2" and cut it sraight down. It wont make it longer but it will let you have articulation with stock charger.

Might work but you'll probably end up with some play and/or binding. The antenna mod works, try it but add a bearing and another sleeve in the rear to keep the axle from walking. Will work about as good as a 4 link but much easier. You can use the stock charger with this mod just don't remove the stock charger tabs when you mod it.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g154/ ... P_4238.jpg

To 4 link even just the rear you will need to add a drive shaft with u-joints. I used square tubing as the slip joint but my u-joints didn't have enough deflection to them to really take advantage of the 4 link.

Can i have better pics of that truck?
and what tires are those?

also what is the anntena mod?

redrustbucket wrote:

Critters wrote:Also i have to make my drive shaft a little bit longer becuase my front gears are sliping and i don't know why.

Because you need to shim it. Probably both f/r pinions. If you shim one or the other the un-shimmed one will slip regardless of which one is slipping now.
Once you've shimmed your pinions the rear axle will start slipping if you're putting real reduction to it and will need to be shimmed a couple ways.

It doesn't slip now. I didn't do the shimmed thing. All i did was take it apart and see what was wrong. I didn't see anything, So i put it back together and it work fine...i don't know why

EDIT: oops i forgot... how do i get more power out of the stock servo?

Do this:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=6991

Then this:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=8800

You'll get something like this:
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... php?t=8960

Shim your pinions at both ends of the drive shaft into the ring gear to eliminate slipping. The trick is tight but not too tight. Once you've eliminated play here it will migrate away from the pinions to other places. Continue shimming where needed until play is eliminated.

Tires are 1/18 Polaris quad from Wal-mart.

Man i don't even knw what "shimmed means. I don't need it now. But thanks anyway.


Wow that is a nice truck. Very nice.

Critters wrote:I love that mod....but i want something for hard core crawling.

You aren't " hardcore crawling " if you don't need to shim anything. Trust me.

Shimming is simply adding washers or whatever to take up slack in the drive line to prevent the gears from slipping. If you do the mods I posted earlier and some gearing you will be much closer to a " hardcore " crawler. Or save yourself a lot of time and frustration and money and just drive it the way it is.

Glad you like the truck.