1/35 scale MAN 5T Truck. SuperSlicks 1/43 donor.

[frizzen]

At Sidewinders suggestion, this thread is a spin-off from the Half-Bakery http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpFo ... 11&t=10042.

I want a MAN 5T truck. SuperSlick 1/43 Monstertruck parts from crazydave. MAN 7T model kit by Revell.

[crazydave]

So I guess there's no chance of getting those axles back now huh?

[frizzen]

Yes, I believe that might be a reasonable assumption. Or there wasn't much chance of it as soon as the box arrived.

I think next up I have to pick up brass stock for frame, source some U-joints...

[sidewinder]

Over on R7R OldTamiyaPhile had a link to some boat U Joints...I will see if I can find the link, but if you don't feel like waiting until I think "Oh crap, I was going to get the link," the company that made them was named Dumas...I rememebr that because I made fun of buying stuff from a comapny named "dumass)."

BTW, I only meant start a thread if it didn't make my current project look like crap...

Nice work, it looks like it should be pretty cool.

[frizzen]

Hehe, dumbass company. remember the commercial with the guy at an interview? Well Mr.Dumbass, I think I can really put the dumbass in dumbass... "The name is pronounced Dumas."

I hadn't thought about boat u-joints. I've heard there are some Duratrax, and Radline driveshafts that are supposed to be a good size for these axles.

It's gonna be atleast another week before I can get to the hobby shop for brass.

Why didn't you tell me you ment it that way?

[SHAUN]

Might want to look into the Losi Mini-Rock Crawler drive shafts, they are small, and have steel u-joints.

[sidewinder]

Don't buy the brass at the hobby shope if you can help it, it will be a lot cheaper at the hardware store. Look for the K&S metal display. If you have an ACE Hardware in the area I have never seen one of those that didn't have a hobby metal section. And, they also have people there who have actually melted metal things together before, with real flaming or sparking welder thingies!

[45tr0]

the duratrax mini quake shafts are what i've used on my landrover - they took some modifying but work pretty well, and look reasonably scale...



Since this picture was taken, i've changed the connection to the axles, by drilling out a cut down mini quake shaft and gluing the bottom hex component from the SSMT into the hole. It's now much stronger than the flimsy original

[frizzen]

I've been looking at the Mini-RockCrawler, but I know that if I pick up a set of driveshafts, somehow I'd end up with a whole MRC with a Sammi body...

Nice tip, I'll have to find an Ace that's still in business around me. And, they also have people there who have actually melted metal things together before, with real flaming or sparking welder thingies! You mean there are people that HAVEN'T done that???

Those Mini-Quakes look pretty good.

[sidewinder]

Nice tip, I'll have to find an Ace that's still in business around me. And, they also have people there who have actually melted metal things together before, with real flaming or sparking welder thingies! You mean there are people that HAVEN'T done that???

Have you talked to some of these kids the hobby shops hire? I'm guessing they aren't allowed to play with anything hot.

[redrustbucket]

That's badass. I need to do something with my ssmt axles.

[frizzen]

I have enough mocked up to call it naked!

[sidewinder]

That's badass. I need to do something with my ssmt axles.

You could just send them to me.

[redrustbucket]

I traded an Align T-rex for them. I'd be interested in a small plane to trade now. Otherwise I'll just hang on to them.

[frizzen]

I've been doing a lot of CAD work (Crayon Aided Design) for this on my breaks at work,

So, frame is soldered up, looks like the mockup so not pic worthy. Feels strong enough with just the 2 crossbraces. Plus the body mount plates, link mount plates, and trans mount plates are going to beef it up even more.

U-joints are the Proboat ones shown in the chassis pic, it'll have telescoping square brass driveshafts.
In removing the brass hex drive on the axles, I discovered the rear axle input shaft under the pinion gear was smooth, but under the hex it was badly splined; so a quick flip there and I should be good for more torque.

Game plan is a double triangulated 3-link both front and rear, using styrene round stock, and small screws with grip length. In my link mockup, the tolerences are tight enough it works fine. My upper link mount is going to be made from some tube stock.

Working on making a way to make a bolt-on way to mount links and shocks to the axles.

Picked up a set of Radline oily shocks. Adjustable preload, 3 spring weights... Filled them up with some 30wt as that's what I run in my Axial