...Yet another messed up...only, on a ZipZap SE body...gone.

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Son_Gokou
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...Yet another messed up...only, on a ZipZap SE body...gone.

Post by Son_Gokou »

Ummm.....I must suck big balls, huh? :(

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Post by hogjowlz »

1: dont touch it for hours and hours until you are sure its totally dry.

2: dont mix different types of paint

3: not a bad masking job
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Post by Son_Gokou »

Thanks for the tips hog. :-)

See, after I finished masking it, I ran it underneath HOT water, then dried it with a napkin.....THEN I held it with my bare hands while pressing down on the masking tape (running it under HOT water can melt the stickiness on the tape and make it peel off a little)....so I'm guessing the oils from my hands went on it, and repelled the paint. Maybe I should wash the car, then rub the windows with my fingers. :-)

Oh well....maybe it's cuz I sprayed the orange on just a second after I finished the blue spray...I think next time I'll let the paint dry.

Anyways, thanks again for the tips. I liked #3 :smile:
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Post by CaboWabo »

arg... that's tough - don't let it stop ya though, mistakes happen all the time.

I'm just going to re-enforce hogs tip of letting the paint dry completely before touching it - never spray on a wet coat of paint... oh yea and don't mix types of paint.

don't spray too heavily either - it's better to do several thin coats than 1 thick one.

and yea, the masking job looks pretty good.
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Post by betty.k »

i suspect the digi cam makes the job look worse than it really is, it's not so bad. wash the shell with warm soapy water and a soft sponge before masking. these should be the last steps prior to spraying. keep at it :-)
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Post by crazydave »

Hot water alone wont remove all the oily residues. You need to use some dish detergent, but I really reccomend avoiding getting used to doing it that way, cause later on when you want to do some masking stuff that wont work.

Go pick up some denatured alcohol, or mineral spirits. It's usually only a couple bucks for a big can, and you usually can find one of them in the hardware section of most grocery stores. Or you could use Naptha, which is commonly sold as lighter fluid, particularly Zippo brand. Any of these will strip the surface of oils, and evaporate fast enough they wont get under your masking.

Also I think you might be getting ahead of youself trying to do a fade. You should master the basic technique of a single color paint job before you move on.

Overall I'd say you just have the common problem of being impatient. Lay thinner coats, and allow longer drying times. It takes me most of the day to paint a body, so just slow down, and take your time.
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Post by filelicker »

ask for a pair of rubber gloves from the doctors office.
rub the car down with rubbing alcohol { except the windows}
wash the body with dish soap and hot water , shake off and let air dry
mask it while wearing the gloves, set it up and remove the gloves
paint and let sit for 24-48 hours minimum
I have never had an adhesion problem while using this formula.
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Post by hue35 »

crazydave wrote:It takes me most of the day to paint a body, so just slow down, and take your time.
It takes me most of a month to finish a paint job...

• prep and primer, let it dry for a day, maybe a second coat of primer... let it dry for another day.
• I let the final primer coat dry for at least 24 hours, usually a couple of days.
• light coat of color. Let it dry for 24 hours (usually I do this step twice, depending on how well a color will cover)
• 1 final wet coat. I'll let that dry for a week... I handle the car a lot when I'm adding details, so I want to make sure that the paint is bone dry.
• add details with a fine brush... I'll usually get all of the detail work done in an evening or two. I'll let the car dry for a final day or two after detailing.
• carefully clean up the car and clear coat it. If I'm using enamel, I'll let that dry for at least a few days, usually a week. SuperFly and I use Future floor polish, which is fully dry in a couple of hours.

I can get a paint job done in a week if I work on it every evening a little bit, but I usually have other stuff going, so it takes me longer. The week-long dry times might seem overkill, but I swear it makes a difference when using enamel. Crazydave is using lacquer, which dries considerably faster than enamel... plus, he's not as lazy as me. :)

Patience is the most important, difficult and rewarding part of a paint job... as crazydave said, take your time.
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Post by Son_Gokou »

Thanks guys.

I even did this within one hour- that's not too wise.

I guess it's like the guys at RCmod say, "You can rush it because you want to see results, but don't expect the results to be any good." Oh well..... :(
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Post by TMP »

:) you really want that faded red to blue huh? how many cars have you tried it on? Remember, if your using spray cans hold them nice and high so you can achive the lightest possible coat, then do a bunch of them as the pimps have said. I dont think that body is gone for good, sand it down as best as you can and i think you may get another chance. keep workin at it son goku, with every mistake youll learn.
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Post by brendan123 »

i usually do my paint jobs in half an hour or so :?
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Post by hue35 »

One more tip for you pimps using rattle cans... heat the cans just before you lay down paint. It lays down WAY better when it's warm/hot. The best way to do this is to fill a small bucket or bowl with hot water, then just lay the can in the water for about 3-5 minutes.
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Post by Son_Gokou »

hue35 wrote:One more tip for you pimps using rattle cans... heat the cans just before you lay down paint. It lays down WAY better when it's warm/hot. The best way to do this is to fill a small bucket or bowl with hot water, then just lay the can in the water for about 3-5 minutes.
Yeah! That's what I do....I warm up a few cups of water (2/3 full) in the microwave for about 5-10 minutes, then dunk the cans in and let them sit.

Also, I think I'll hold the can away from the car about 14 inches, and spray on a coat....then do it again, and again....etc.

Right now, however, I think I'll just wait to get some paint thinner to remove the paint. :(
Go pick up some denatured alcohol, or mineral spirits. It's usually only a couple bucks for a big can, and you usually can find one of them in the hardware section of most grocery stores. Or you could use Naptha, which is commonly sold as lighter fluid, particularly Zippo brand. Any of these will strip the surface of oils, and evaporate fast enough they wont get under your masking.
Actually, I just wash the body, then wipe it dry with napkins, then put on the masking tape, then wash the body again, then wipe it dry.


I owe you guys BIG time, Thanks a LOT pimps! :smile:
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Post by Son_Gokou »

Ok, here she is, repainted....and slightly messed up. DAMN, knew I should have warmed up those damn cans. Oh well.

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Post by betty.k »

this topic is a good example of why it's good to show off your disasters as well as your masterpieces, gives everyone a chance to turn on the knowledge fountain. :???:
son g, i think you're gonna have to strip that sucker back and start again :sad: i've done it with a toothbrush and turpentine and all the paint came off. BUT the clear plastic becomes cloudy making the windows a bit ugly. i just paint them black in that case, better to have a smooth job than clear windows. also, use rubber gloves when cleaning with turps or you will leave finger prints in the plastic as the plastic becomes a little softened from the turps. wash thouroughly with warm soapy water and the toothbrush and allow to stand for about a day just to be sure the turps has evaporated completely. keep us posted, we all wanna see you succeed with you're painting! :-)
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