4.8V racer chassis

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 3:28 pm

Bcg steering assembly, bcg drive assembly, zipzap rims and one big arse paddle pop stick!

ph2t.

PimpIke · Post by **PimpIke** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 4:17 pm

shit? that is a nice pan style chassis ya got goin on there man... 4 cells! DAMN.
yer car looks real nice .

cheers,

mike:)

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 10:54 pm

Ok, now you're pushing the bounds of sanity.

I think I'm about to join you.

I've been kinda missing my old tri-cell car...

I think I'm gonna do it. I think I'm gonna just completely lose it like you.

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 11:10 pm

hell yeah cowboy!

hopefully will get it going tonight...

it's partly your fault dude, lol, they were your zz rims...

ph2t.

TMP · Post by **TMP** » Thu Feb 19, 2004 5:41 pm

Awesome man! With the length of the chassis you probably wont have to worry about wheelies if your building a dragster, But handling might be a set back... this is awesome, i wish i had the tools to pull a job like this.

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Wed Mar 03, 2004 5:09 pm

OK, manged to score my bro's camera so here are some better shots of this beast...

Current specs:

pan style flat chassis
BCG steering assembly
BCG motor mount
4 x 1.2V/50mAh NiCd
49 Mhz clone PCB with TriStack(tm) FET's
Monster tyres
Triple spring steering arm
8.96:1 Gears
my verision of the Hog's JBWled axle trick
guitar string antenna
custom "full flare" heatsink, lol

Here's some clearer shots of the fets. Notice the layout of fets on this clone PCB is not like all the regular pcb's. One thing though, the higher youstack the easier it gets as the fets start to clear the PCB.

This is my version of the axle slip fix made famous by Hog and his bloody JBWeld. Basically I get a piece of plastic and wedge it into the groove leaving enough space for the axle to turn freely. Once I'm happy I then dab a drop of super glue on the top and make sure it joins the sorrounding chassis plastic. I guess this way I can still remove the plastic later if I ever need to replace/repair the axles.

Now that I'm running 4.8V though the motor AND I have upgraded the current handling capacity of the H-Bridge (the fet triple stack we're talkin' here) the motor runs extremely hot! over 60 degrees C!. I've actually seared the end of a finger because I picked up the car by the heatsink after a solid 3+ minute run. So I made a custom heatsink from some clone heatsinks I had lying around. I gotta say it helps. The more you keep your motors cool, the longer they last.

If only I had made this heatsink earlier my precious (and only) EM38 Vanquish wouldn't of died......

.

ph2t.

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Wed Mar 03, 2004 5:14 pm

mad max poppin up here.

Son_Gokou · Post by **Son_Gokou** » Wed Mar 03, 2004 6:16 pm

Woah, that must go FAAAST! Did you try using KIT racer gears with that??

midget_man1387 · Post by **midget_man1387** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 5:15 pm

I noticed on yours as well as others around that you have your batts wired directly to the PCB. my question to you is, how the hell do you charge that thing?

Post by **CaboWabo** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 6:13 pm

probably the same as always... look at like this - he got rid of the tabs on the battery holder that would normally be inside the chassis. no tabs so the wires connect straight to the battery.

TMP · Post by **TMP** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 6:18 pm

CaboWabo wrote:probably the same as always... look at like this - he got rid of the tabs on the battery holder that would normally be inside the chassis. no tabs so the wires connect straight to the battery.

Thats Waaaay easier than those anoying tabs, but how does he charge it?

midget_man1387 · Post by **midget_man1387** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 6:26 pm

CaboWabo wrote:probably the same as always... look at like this - he got rid of the tabs on the battery holder that would normally be inside the chassis. no tabs so the wires connect straight to the battery.

I got that part, but if you look at the conventional charging method, you see that the tabs on the underside of the chassis charge the battery, which in turn have a wire going to the pcb, telling it that there's power. it looks to me like he has nothing to charge with, seeing as how there are no tabs.

ph2t · Post by **ph2t** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 6:30 pm

I charge using a 6V regulated mains DC supply at approx 800mA. I use alligator clips to connect to the battery terminals....

ph2t.

Post by **CaboWabo** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 6:35 pm

ahem...

ph2t wrote:I charge using a 6V regulated mains DC supply at approx 800mA. I use alligator clips to connect to the battery terminals....

ph2t.

that's how

midget_man1387 · Post by **midget_man1387** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 6:43 pm

ph2t wrote:I charge using a 6V regulated mains DC supply at approx 800mA. I use alligator clips to connect to the battery terminals....

ph2t.

so in laymans terms, you hook some shit up to the side of your battery(ies?), and it charges that way?