My Iwaver Mini-Z....with a few upgrades.

Son_Gokou · Post by **Son_Gokou** » Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:49 pm

2x2 FET stack of SI4562DY FETs (you'll like this one)

Carbon Fiber Midship Conversion X plate...now I need a Ferrari Enzo body....

This isn't a really good shot....GPM Alloy motor mount

And I need a ball diff (for more clearance and for WAY less slippage in the gears...With all the power from the FETs and the 35 turn motor with Crest Spinbrush mags, this thing fucking screams!!) for this to work, because the screw gets in the way.....The GPM 11T pinion....

It's not installed now, instead I have to use the stock 6T pinion because of the lack of clearance from the stock diff....and it's also what's causing a shitload of slippage in the gears inside the stock differential....:roll

Now I have to get a USB/Firewire cable and some movie making software to take a video....

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:52 pm

holy fuck.

charlie contributing something legit

sessiz · Post by **sessiz** » Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:55 pm

I gotta start work on my bunker.

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Sat Jul 10, 2004 3:39 am

well done!

(NOT a typo)

i have questions about the x plate. does the motor mount hit the chassis when the rear end is compressed? can you fit rear shocks with that setup?

and you should be able to fit that pinion on that diff, just use the plastic spacers from the stock motor mount. i have a mount that's the same and i just fine tune the mesh using paper shims under the motor and screws on top, running a 10t pinion. the spur gear is the same size on stock and ball diff's, the only way to adjust the gear mesh is by moving the motor. this applies to all z motor mounts. you can buy aftermarket spur gears for ball diff's of varying size somewhereorother, but you still use those spacers under the motor (unless you got a pn racing mount).

Son_Gokou · Post by **Son_Gokou** » Sat Jul 10, 2004 3:56 pm

betty.k wrote:well done! (NOT a typo)

i have questions about the x plate. does the motor mount hit the chassis when the rear end is compressed? can you fit rear shocks with that setup?

and you should be able to fit that pinion on that diff, just use the plastic spacers from the stock motor mount. i have a mount that's the same and i just fine tune the mesh using paper shims under the motor and screws on top, running a 10t pinion. the spur gear is the same size on stock and ball diff's, the only way to adjust the gear mesh is by moving the motor. this applies to all z motor mounts. you can buy aftermarket spur gears for ball diff's of varying size somewhereorother, but you still use those spacers under the motor (unless you got a pn racing mount).

lol..with the GPM alloy motor mount, you can't use the spacers....there's nothing to hold the spacers in place...I think the only way you can adjust the height of the motor is to let the friction between the mount and the motor take care of that (that's what she said) and the pinion won't fit because of a small screw sticking out of the alloy shaft (red, in the pic), which is supposed to hold the pinion on the armature pinion shaft, makes contact with the shaft on the stock differential, in the ball diff I believe there's no shaft, just a small knob that you use to tighten the diff.....I believe.

As for the X plate, I think you'd have to fuck around with the shock, but yes you can fit a rear oil shock on there...and the roll shocks would take a little fucking with too to get em to fit. I haven't tried though....

Bird · Post by **Bird** » Sat Jul 10, 2004 4:26 pm

Son_Gokou wrote:lol..with the GPM alloy motor mount, you can't use the spacers....there's nothing to hold the spacers in place...

I'm pretty sure that it works the same as with the stock mount... the motor and the motor clip hold the spacers in place.

Oh, btw, Good shit, Goku... what is that 35 turn you're runnin' in there?

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Sat Jul 10, 2004 6:24 pm

the spacers will work, i guarantee it. you need to hold them in place when you assemble it but they are the ONLY way you can adjust for different sized pinions.

see the little lips under each end of the spacer? that's where the spacers sit. your mount will have thes lips.

Son_Gokou · Post by **Son_Gokou** » Sat Jul 10, 2004 11:05 pm

betty.k wrote:the spacers will work, i guarantee it. you need to hold them in place when you assemble it but they are the ONLY way you can adjust for different sized pinions.

see the little lips under each end of the spacer? that's where the spacers sit. your mount will have thes lips.

Oh, I noticed...thanks betty.k!

Bird...the motor consists of the following:

35 turns, 30 ga wire, not pattern wound (takes up quite a bit of space actually! But I don't want to take any big risks yet, I just got these FETs, soldering them in was a pain in the ass, and I don't wanna fry them too soon!

)

Crest Spinbrush magnets

Motor can (ripped it off a motor that comes in a hand held mini-breeze fan)

Escalation/stock Iwaver mini-z motor brushes....

EDIT: thanks again betty, I shoved a 1.0 thick spacer in there, I just need a little putty to hold the pinion on the shaft, and DEFINITELY a ball diff tightened to the max, and I'm set! Gave this thing a test run, it can scream pretty well, but since it's 1:04 AM over here and I can't go out on the driveway, I'm gonna have to wait till tomorrow....Man, now I can't sleep....

Son_Gokou · Post by **Son_Gokou** » Sun Jul 11, 2004 1:19 pm

UPDATE: Turns out it was a 1.0 spacer, not 1.5. It looks like I need a 1.5 spacer to get this mutha cracking.....With the 11T pinion, I was slowly accelerating downhill, but uphill, pretty slow.

Oh, and I'm thinking of buying that little 35 turn jewel from www.minizworkshop.com

betty.k · Post by **betty.k** » Sun Jul 11, 2004 6:05 pm

that's where the paper comes in. in my pic you can see the yellow paper under the motor. this fine tunes the gear mesh. you can use paper, alfoil, thin plastic, anything.

with the ball diff, i was advised to tighten it up so it slips just a little with hard throttle. i have mine set up like that and it works well, the ball diff usually slips before the tyres break traction, i feel this gives me more control.

Son_Gokou · Post by **Son_Gokou** » Sun Jul 11, 2004 9:12 pm

betty.k wrote:that's where the paper comes in. in my pic you can see the yellow paper under the motor. this fine tunes the gear mesh. you can use paper, alfoil, thin plastic, anything.

with the ball diff, i was advised to tighten it up so it slips just a little with hard throttle. i have mine set up like that and it works well, the ball diff usually slips before the tyres break traction, i feel this gives me more control.

I'm guessing that with a ball diff, the tighter it is the less slip there is in the gears, but the looser, the more slip. Too loose won't give it enough power through the turns, too tight will cause understeer or oversteer depending on the torque or traction of the tires.

Anyway, I think I may have already fried my FETs.....The motor hookup wires just keep coming off, but I think I may have done a bad soldering job, because when I soldered em back on and gunned the throttle with my finger on the FETs...they got really hot, I almost burned my finger! But no smoke came from them, so I think the FETs may be ok. I can only hope!

However, I have some Xmod motors, when I'm not feeling lazy, then I'll get a candle/lighter, heat the pinions and pop em off, and try those out.

I have to start working a bit harder around the house, but when I get 20 dollars, I'm getting a ball diff, and some more FETs just in case (and if ph2t keeps selling his Woah nelly turbos, I'll eventually buy one) and hopefully I'll be back in business.

hogjowlz · Post by **hogjowlz** » Tue Aug 03, 2004 10:29 am

i wpuld be drippin some jbweld in there if i had that setup lol. seriously