Dump'd Truck

Sdog · Post by **Sdog** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 9:25 pm

I see another video of a crazydave ZZ flying through the air with the greatest of ease in the near future. This time it will be a silver and blue streak....

jmays · Post by **jmays** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:27 pm

i use a florescent light between the camera and the subject, as close to the subject as possible. i have not had any luck with a flash on close ups, it flushes out the whole picture.

jmays

Post by **CaboWabo** » Wed Jul 21, 2004 11:12 pm

yea but that sliverado lowered?
somefin's just not right in my head - but little is with me lol

anyways, yea dude, if car needed neon, a lowered truck is the one - you gots ta.
those neon tubes ph2t was makin would be the illest, but if ya when with the typical led and mounted like nox did his way back when - that'd work like a charm too.
either way - I'm thinkin neon with all the paint and other modding you do, would set that biatch off.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 7:40 pm

I'm not at all happy with the way it came out, so what's new, huh? I liked it better just silver.

I am happy with my dual exhaust

That outta add a few mph, ya think?

Sdog · Post by **Sdog** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:05 pm

Looks hot to me man....not sure what you aren't happy with.

I've got a technical question for ya CD. When you tab lower, what material do you use? I have heard some people say old credit cars, but I'm wondering if that is thick enough.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:53 pm

I use zip zap packaging. I think it sticks to super glue better, and it varies in thickness, so you can usually find a piece just the right thickness.

I just wasn't happy with the flames, because it needed a thin line for separation, and it would've been too hard to mask, so I tried freehanding it with a sharpie, and I'm just sloppy freehand.

...and I just liked it silver.

SuperFly · Post by **SuperFly** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 9:56 pm

Nice CD. Hehe, I can't remember whose car it was, but you had suggested separating two color areas on a RX-7 with a black line, and I cautioned against it for fear of fucking up an otherwise nice paintjob. That stuff scares the hell out of me, like doing panel lines and window trim. It always seems like my accuracy on any particular car is inversely proportional to how good the underlying paint job is. If the main body paint is perfect, I can guarantee I'll mess up some detail. And whenever I manage to nail the details, it's on a flawed paintjob or I do a bad clearcoat.

I think it's a pretty nice job for freehand Sharpie.

sdog, when I tab lower, I just use the front tab in the front. Cut it off using a mitre box (or just being careful to cut straight), and then glue it back on about 2 of it's own thicknesses lower. You can reinforce it with other plastic and glue if neccessary. The rear is trickier if you want to maintain the motor clip slot. I use strips of styrene found at any hobby store. it comes in various thicknesses, and one of them is just a little thicker than a credit card, which is perfect.

payaso · Post by **payaso** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 11:49 pm

I think it came out lookin good. They all can't be #1...

The wheels are kick ass too. How does it drive? Handle good?

silla

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 12:59 am

SuperFly wrote:Nice CD. Hehe, I can't remember whose car it was, but you had suggested separating two color areas on a RX-7 with a black line, and I cautioned against it for fear of fucking up an otherwise nice paintjob. That stuff scares the hell out of me, like doing panel lines and window trim. It always seems like my accuracy on any particular car is inversely proportional to how good the underlying paint job is. If the main body paint is perfect, I can guarantee I'll mess up some detail. And whenever I manage to nail the details, it's on a flawed paintjob or I do a bad clearcoat.

Yeah that was Midget Man's RX-7. That was all straight lines, I would've just masked that off. I'm 98% confident when masking stuff, but I never would have tried to match all the curves in the flames. That would've been too tricky to cut twice, unless my freakin' scanner still worked so I could scan them in and print a mask like I used to do.

When I do details I do them after the clear coat. Since I do details with Testor's enamel, it'll wipe right off the laquer, using mineral spirits. That way I can try over and over.

Payaso, hell yeah it handles. That was my whole purpose in getting this car. After Hog raved about his F150s chassis, and how well it handled with the springs, I had to get one, since the only other car I have with springs is one I got from Superfly.

It does handle great, and is probably my best handling chassis. So when I did the mods, I was very careful not to fuck that up. I shaved the hell out of the wheel wells so the wheels do not rub, even when the wheels are fully compressed, and cranked to one side, and the wheels are no different than Zip Zap Wheels, 'cause they are. I just shaved the Dub City wheels to fit in the Zip Zap wheel like the original, but a little bit more narrow, so it doesn't stick ou like the original.

See check it out.

Works for me.

payaso · Post by **payaso** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 1:04 am

Very cool dude... Thanks for the info.. Can ya believe out of all my shit, I still don't have a regular ZZ??

I'm seriously lackin lately

silla

Sdog · Post by **Sdog** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 7:08 am

payaso wrote:Very cool dude... Thanks for the info.. Can ya believe out of all my shit, I still don't have a regular ZZ??

Well now is the time to pick one up....9.99.

Thanks for the info. Dave and Superfly. I am working on a similar project. I picked up a Jada Toys Street Tuner car. The wheels are sweet and there are other little interior parts I think I can use. I got a little agressive with one of the wheels last night and busted it. It looks like I am going to have to do something with the thickness of the wheels so they don't stick out. May have to trim the rear axel too. I was thinking of doing the Fi50 Black with silver racing stripes across the hood, roof, and down the tailgate.....or maybe keep it silver with black or blue racing stripes. I got to figure this wheel shit out first.

crazydave · Post by **crazydave** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 7:59 am

It looks like I am going to have to do something with the thickness of the wheels so they don't stick out.

Here's what I do, after I dremel out the center piece in the back of the wheel, I dremel around the edge until it fits into the ZZ wheel. Then I rub the back of the wheel in circles on some 150 grit sand paper. I keep turning it quarter turnes, to keep it level. When it's almost the right width, I finish off with 400 grit. I had to dremel back the center piece and axle on the rear ZZ wheels, and in the front I used my exacto to carve out a hole for the pin to come through.

DarkTari · Post by **DarkTari** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 8:34 am

Damn Cavey, Dat mutha is da 5hit ! I like the paint job myself, also modifying the Dub wheels to fit ZZ hubs is the way to go. I've always done it that way, no off center issues to deal with which makes the car run & handle a lot smoother. I bought one about 3 weeks ago, just haven't decided what to do with it. I was just gonna use the chassis (cause it has springs) with another body. But since they're on clearance now and I've picked up a couple more with springs so I'll probably use the F150 body now. I'm still fiend'n for those Vette bodies soon to come

DarkTari · Post by **DarkTari** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 9:01 am

crazydave wrote:
It looks like I am going to have to do something with the thickness of the wheels so they don't stick out.
Here's what I do, after I dremel out the center piece in the back of the wheel, I dremel around the edge until it fits into the ZZ wheel. Then I rub the back of the wheel in circles on some 150 grit sand paper. I keep turning it quarter turnes, to keep it level. When it's almost the right width, I finish off with 400 grit. I had to dremel back the center piece and axle on the rear ZZ wheels, and in the front I used my exacto to carve out a hole for the pin to come through.

My I add if you Pimp's don't have a Dremel, you should've entered the past
contest where we gave away one !........Just kidding !
You can use an Xacto to cut the back center piece but before you do that,
drill your hole so that the cap will center correctly on the ZZ hub. Then I
use a large file (about 1.4" wide) ,slide the cap up & down the file until I
get it the right thickness. Then the inside has to be altered (filed) to fit
inside the hub. The center hole can be filed out to fit the Hub center
or a larger drill bit will do the trick. I also use Bit tyres because of the width.

However I did use ZZ tyres on the front of the Benz for rubbing purposes

Ahh5hit · Post by **Ahh5hit** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 3:21 pm

That is by far the best Zip Zap paint job I have seen. Awesome work dave! That thing looks pretty damn perfect to me.

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