Oh, No, LOOK what I went and did...
- Sdog
- bitPimp
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- bitPimp
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The space you have avalible to run the car comes into play.
The money you have to spend doesn't really matter. You can spend just as much on either scale.
The 1:18 I think are much more fun because of the size. The 1:10 are fun too, but you need more room.
The 1:10 scale has more places to race people.
I wanted to work my way up thru the scales. 1:64th, 1:43rd, 1:28th, 1:18th and so on. Learning as I go. I figure once I hit 1:10th, I'll be able to have a good background and working knowelege of the parts and the way they are used and put together.
I think they both have many plus and minus points, but I just think its the natuarl progression too work up thru the scales and learn as you go. I just got into RC's in general this past January and there is no way I'd know what to do with a real good 1:10th ride and mantain it properly. I, myself felt I needed to work my way up so that when the time comes I will know the best choices to make when buying a BRAND NEW 1:10th RIDE!!! $$$$$$
Buy building this Mini-T, I have learned so much from buying different parts, where they go and how they are used and the practicality of them.
It is also real cool to have someone close by that knows what the fuck a slipper clutch is and what its for!! Many thanks to Bird for his tireless help and patience!!!
Wait till you guys see this thing!!!
Pimp My Ride and Orange County, AIN'T GOT SHIT ON ME!!!
The money you have to spend doesn't really matter. You can spend just as much on either scale.
The 1:18 I think are much more fun because of the size. The 1:10 are fun too, but you need more room.
The 1:10 scale has more places to race people.
I wanted to work my way up thru the scales. 1:64th, 1:43rd, 1:28th, 1:18th and so on. Learning as I go. I figure once I hit 1:10th, I'll be able to have a good background and working knowelege of the parts and the way they are used and put together.
I think they both have many plus and minus points, but I just think its the natuarl progression too work up thru the scales and learn as you go. I just got into RC's in general this past January and there is no way I'd know what to do with a real good 1:10th ride and mantain it properly. I, myself felt I needed to work my way up so that when the time comes I will know the best choices to make when buying a BRAND NEW 1:10th RIDE!!! $$$$$$
Buy building this Mini-T, I have learned so much from buying different parts, where they go and how they are used and the practicality of them.
It is also real cool to have someone close by that knows what the fuck a slipper clutch is and what its for!! Many thanks to Bird for his tireless help and patience!!!
Wait till you guys see this thing!!!
Pimp My Ride and Orange County, AIN'T GOT SHIT ON ME!!!
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- bitPimp
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Here are a couple of pics of the parts I have so far for my Mini-T.
Some of these parts were de-anodized. Can you tell the difference?
The SSG (Silver Sealed Graphite) Chassis.
The tags from the parts I've received so far.
I'm getting more this week. I'm just waiting for the mail the next few days!!
When this car is done you'll have to pad your jaw from hittin' the floor!!
Some of these parts were de-anodized. Can you tell the difference?
The SSG (Silver Sealed Graphite) Chassis.
The tags from the parts I've received so far.
I'm getting more this week. I'm just waiting for the mail the next few days!!
When this car is done you'll have to pad your jaw from hittin' the floor!!
- Sdog
- bitPimp
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- Bird
- bitPimp
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OK... Ive been getting a little antsy being the only pimp that has seen the progress on 219s project Blingy-T, so the other night ago, I snuck in a quick blurry snap to tease yall with... it's blurry on purpose so you can get a feel for the blinginess, but not really get too good of a look at all of the surprises that my colleague has in store for you...
I can't wait to do the real photo shoot of this thing when it's done... it ain't even mine, but I am proud of it because of the hours of work that I have invested into it...
I can't wait to do the real photo shoot of this thing when it's done... it ain't even mine, but I am proud of it because of the hours of work that I have invested into it...
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- bitPimp
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Oh, so soon.
I still need to get....
JR XS3 Pro TX
Servo...not sure which one yet. It needs to have a silver case.
Mamba 6800 Brushless
Axle pins
Alloy wheel nuts
Front Spindles
Servo mounting blocks
New ball cups, the 3Racing ones I ordered SUCK!!!
Ball post set
Alloy extended body mounts
Alloy transfer gear
Body paint, in addition to what I have already
Polished screw set for spares, plus a few I need
Build my own pack{Battery solder tabs
{Silicone wire
{Deans plugs
{Large Heat shrink
Wheelie bar is on back order, just waiting...
I think thats about it.
When this is done, it will be a 100% aftermarket Mini-T. I'm hoping to have it done before Thanksgiving.
There is some stuff I just haven't come across or can't find yet.
I still need to get....
JR XS3 Pro TX
Servo...not sure which one yet. It needs to have a silver case.
Mamba 6800 Brushless
Axle pins
Alloy wheel nuts
Front Spindles
Servo mounting blocks
New ball cups, the 3Racing ones I ordered SUCK!!!
Ball post set
Alloy extended body mounts
Alloy transfer gear
Body paint, in addition to what I have already
Polished screw set for spares, plus a few I need
Build my own pack{Battery solder tabs
{Silicone wire
{Deans plugs
{Large Heat shrink
Wheelie bar is on back order, just waiting...
I think thats about it.
When this is done, it will be a 100% aftermarket Mini-T. I'm hoping to have it done before Thanksgiving.
There is some stuff I just haven't come across or can't find yet.
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- bitPimp
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- bitPimp
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I figure I'm going to be getting into RC's deeper and deeper, so why not INVEST a few bucks and have a good radio for several cars and trucks down the road.
I gotta say having Bird around to talk to and the people online, helps out alot with thinkin' things out and the options I have avalible to me.
I gotta say having Bird around to talk to and the people online, helps out alot with thinkin' things out and the options I have avalible to me.
- TheEvo
- bitGangsta'
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- bitPimp
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TheEvo wrote:SG--->If it is a 100% aftermarket mini-t, why did you buy the og mini-t in the first place
Haha, that looks blingin'
I'm guessing it was because he hadn't seen one to know what parts are needed. Lots of parts to be swapped out. If you haven't seen one, where would you start. Kinda like a $100 starter template.
I bet he could build one from scratch now though.
silla
payaso......
"Imagination is everything. It's the preview to lifes coming attractions" -Albert Einstein
"Imagination is everything. It's the preview to lifes coming attractions" -Albert Einstein
- SuperFly
- bitPimp
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Plus, by the time you replace all the original parts with upgrades, you'll have a complete second truck! I've done that with a Mini-z MR01. Built a complete car out of spare parts in a box.payaso wrote:TheEvo wrote:SG--->If it is a 100% aftermarket mini-t, why did you buy the og mini-t in the first place
Haha, that looks blingin'
I'm guessing it was because he hadn't seen one to know what parts are needed. Lots of parts to be swapped out. If you haven't seen one, where would you start. Kinda like a $100 starter template.
I bet he could build one from scratch now though.
silla
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- bitPimp
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yes,.payaso wrote:TheEvo wrote:SG--->If it is a 100% aftermarket mini-t, why did you buy the og mini-t in the first place
Haha, that looks blingin'
I'm guessing it was because he hadn't seen one to know what parts are needed. Lots of parts to be swapped out. If you haven't seen one, where would you start. Kinda like a $100 starter template.
I bet he could build one from scratch now though.
silla
two seperate trucks!!!
I can build one in my sleep now!!! hmmmm...it was a good night!!
- LoRDDeVO2
- bitThug
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- Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 8:24 am
- Location: KiLLa QUeeNZ, NY
I hear that ... I had 2 separate Trucks when I was done. One complete aluminum one with a mamba 6800 , and the second truck was Brushed with a Krystal 3 motor.SuperFly wrote: Plus, by the time you replace all the original parts with upgrades, you'll have a complete second truck! I've done that with a Mini-z MR01. Built a complete car out of spare parts in a box.
JR Tx's are Awesome. I have a XR3i Tx and a R135 Rx in my brushless and a XR3 Tx and a Novak XXL Rx in my brushed.
Best of both worlds I would say.
As for the stuff you need, I would recommend
Servo - Haven't seen a silver case servo but I would recommend an Airtronics 94501Z micro servo. - I have one in each t and its great no centering issues like the Hitec ones. I guess you can paint the servo silver if you want.
Axle pins - Lunsford Ti Pins are the best but I don't think it will make too much of a difference.
Alloy wheel nuts
Front Spindles - Racers edge or 3racing
Servo mounting blocks - Comes in the Servo saver kit
New ball cups, the 3Racing ones I ordered SUCK!!! - Doesn't the Ball diff have its own Cups?
Ball post set What Tierods do you have? Racers edge makes great tierods and you can use the stock size ball studs.
If you don't mind tapping bigger holes you can use lifetime guaranteed Lunsford Punishers but you need 4-40 ball studs, and RPM Cups. (Let me know if you wanna go this route I will hook you up with the right size you need)
Alloy extended body mounts - Haven't seen them. I use the Losi ones.
Alloy transfer gear - GPM makes 59 60 61 tooth gears.
Body paint, in addition to what I have already - I use Parma Fast Kolors. I have also used Taymia paint and it works great. Make sure you get Poly Acryrilic paint, its flexible.
Polished screw set - Hardware store Cheaper
Build my own pack{Battery solder tabs
{Silicone wire
{Deans plugs
{Large Heat shrink - Most Websites sell kits, But CBP and Team Helotes makes custom packs just email them
Wheelie bar is on back order, just waiting... ESP or New era?
Hope I helped you in any way. Us Mini-T Peepz need to stick together
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- bitPimp
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I will probably end up getting a black cased one.LoRDDeVO2 wrote:I hear that ... I had 2 separate Trucks when I was done. One complete aluminum one with a mamba 6800 , and the second truck was Brushed with a Krystal 3 motor.SuperFly wrote: Plus, by the time you replace all the original parts with upgrades, you'll have a complete second truck! I've done that with a Mini-z MR01. Built a complete car out of spare parts in a box.
JR Tx's are Awesome. I have a XR3i Tx and a R135 Rx in my brushless and a XR3 Tx and a Novak XXL Rx in my brushed.
Best of both worlds I would say.
As for the stuff you need, I would recommend
Servo - Haven't seen a silver case servo but I would recommend an Airtronics 94501Z micro servo. - I have one in each t and its great no centering issues like the Hitec ones. I guess you can paint the servo silver if you want.
Any will do.Axle pins - Lunsford Ti Pins are the best but I don't think it will make too much of a difference.
Easy find.Alloy wheel nuts
I've been getting 3Racing stuff and GPM, I'll look into them.Front Spindles - Racers edge or 3racing
The Alloy blocks that the servo mount too. On the sides.Servo mounting blocks - Comes in the Servo saver kit
The ones that attach to the tierods are shitty plastic and are deformed a little too.New ball cups, the 3Racing ones I ordered SUCK!!! - Doesn't the Ball diff have its own Cups?
Lunsford Ti-rods I think. I don't really want to tap anything but some fine ass. I need the ball studs in silver if possible so I don't have to de-adodize them if I don't have too. Throw me a link to what you have going.Ball post set What Tierods do you have? Racers edge makes great tierods and you can use the stock size ball studs.
If you don't mind tapping bigger holes you can use lifetime guaranteed Lunsford Punishers but you need 4-40 ball studs, and RPM Cups. (Let me know if you wanna go this route I will hook you up with the right size you need)
I haven't seen them either. The only alloy body mounts I've come across are the front short ones. I might have to make my own.Alloy extended body mounts - Haven't seen them. I use the Losi ones.
I was talkin' about the 3rd small gear in the box. I haven't opened up the stock gear box yet, but I'm under the impression that there is 3 gears in there. The top gear, the diff gear, and one more small one. I have the top gear in alloy and the 3Racing Diff.Alloy transfer gear - GPM makes 59 60 61 tooth gears.
I still need to pick up some silver/chrome. The body I have tentively intend on using is a H2 body.Body paint, in addition to what I have already - I use Parma Fast Kolors. I have also used Taymia paint and it works great. Make sure you get Poly Acryrilic paint, its flexible.
I tried, but I can't find the small sizes around here. I'll order a complete set and have some back-ups on hand.Polished screw set - Hardware store Cheaper
I picked up 8 PN Racing 1250's. I wanna put those in one pack and shrink them all together. I want to do it myself for practice and learning reasons. If I mess it up, then I'll just head over to a Battery site and have themm do it.Build my own pack{Battery solder tabs
{Silicone wire
{Deans plugs
{Large Heat shrink - Most Websites sell kits, But CBP and Team Helotes makes custom packs just email them
I have no idea, its been on back order at Tower for so long, I forgot. I'll have to check.Wheelie bar is on back order, just waiting... ESP or New era?
Edit:It's an ESP.
Hope I helped you in any way. Us Mini-T Peepz need to stick together
You have, Thanks
- LoRDDeVO2
- bitThug
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 8:24 am
- Location: KiLLa QUeeNZ, NY
ESP Wheelie Bars aren't the greatest check this
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showth ... hlight=ESP
Ball Cups-
Sorry I thought you meant what the dog-bones attach into. The best ball cups are made by RPM. Lots of Colors too http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/index.htm
As for the Servo posts. The servo saver comes with blue plastic ones. For alloy GPM makes um.
As for the gear i know which one your talking about. The one that just sits there? I am guessing you got the MIP lightweight gear on top?
Haven't seen the other one in alloy.
Battery-
If you want to build your own Pack I suggest getting a Deans Battery Jig. Its easy really the jig keeps them straight. it also has a clip that hols the battery bar in place. A must get. I have one, its awesome. I followed these Tutorials
http://www.balakracing.com/buildingbatterypacks.htm
http://www.promatchracing.com/assemble.htm
BTW Promatch is a good site for any accessories you need.
You need a 40watt or higher iron some thing that will give you at least 550-650 Deg I had to use a Big ol Craftsman Soldering gun for it to work.
Use at least 14 Gauge wire if you are using GP cells or Kans and a BL motor The Mamba pulls 25 amps continuous to 50 amps peak.
I suggest using Deans wet noodle wire its silcone covered 12 gauge wire and pretty cheap on ebay.
and course use Deans Connectors or Power Poles on the battery packs.
As for the tie rods if you use punishers you need bigger ball cups, and you need biger ballstuds, and if you have alloy shock towers, you need to tap bigger holes. If you want stock studs Lunsford makes um. They are the mini studs. For Tierods you can use Racers Edge ones they are pretty good. They come with RPM cups.
If you need anymore help lemme know
Peace SG
LoRDDeVO
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showth ... hlight=ESP
Ball Cups-
Sorry I thought you meant what the dog-bones attach into. The best ball cups are made by RPM. Lots of Colors too http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/index.htm
As for the Servo posts. The servo saver comes with blue plastic ones. For alloy GPM makes um.
As for the gear i know which one your talking about. The one that just sits there? I am guessing you got the MIP lightweight gear on top?
Haven't seen the other one in alloy.
Battery-
If you want to build your own Pack I suggest getting a Deans Battery Jig. Its easy really the jig keeps them straight. it also has a clip that hols the battery bar in place. A must get. I have one, its awesome. I followed these Tutorials
http://www.balakracing.com/buildingbatterypacks.htm
http://www.promatchracing.com/assemble.htm
BTW Promatch is a good site for any accessories you need.
You need a 40watt or higher iron some thing that will give you at least 550-650 Deg I had to use a Big ol Craftsman Soldering gun for it to work.
Use at least 14 Gauge wire if you are using GP cells or Kans and a BL motor The Mamba pulls 25 amps continuous to 50 amps peak.
I suggest using Deans wet noodle wire its silcone covered 12 gauge wire and pretty cheap on ebay.
and course use Deans Connectors or Power Poles on the battery packs.
As for the tie rods if you use punishers you need bigger ball cups, and you need biger ballstuds, and if you have alloy shock towers, you need to tap bigger holes. If you want stock studs Lunsford makes um. They are the mini studs. For Tierods you can use Racers Edge ones they are pretty good. They come with RPM cups.
If you need anymore help lemme know
Peace SG
LoRDDeVO