ZZ-M and Axle Stall. Better extreme angle climbing?

Maxximum Attack · Post by **Maxximum Attack** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 10:13 pm

For me to even THINK about doing this mod, I'd have to convert all my RCs to FM, but I'd do it

From the time I saw it, I was thinking how it could replace the huge SE board so that I could put a tub in there

Maxx

frizzen · Post by **frizzen** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:43 am

Clint has not only exceeded the original scope and detail of this threads project, he is also going to exceed the controlability of the real clodbusters that the project was inspired by!

Damn!
-

I'm still not getting really motivated about the Topless contest, so I started playing around some with this original idea, fiddling, machining, test fitting... Making the ZZ-M go to FWD only isn't really that tough! Making the slipper clutch should just be a matter of taking a couple of the spare "wheel washers" (that the ZZ-M's always come with) and sticking them in between the only cuts you have to make for the mod. Then fine-tuning the stall speed of the clutch should just be a simple matter of setting the lugnut torque on the Right Rear tire.

So far, I've discovered you need:
- 3/32" brass tube
- 1/8" brass tube
- File
- Cutting implement
- Glue
- Vicegrips or pliers

Unfortunately, I realized that I've managed to loose the plastic bushing on the side I wasn't even messing with somewhere. So I guess I'm gonna have to pick one of my good trucks, and have it become a parts donor now.

My kingdom for a bushing!

Clint · Post by **Clint** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 1:51 am

I'm starting to get somewhere with the chassis/articulation design. Trying to "stick" with the clodbuster theme.

video
http://www.v6power.net/clint/mwhq.net/m ... roclod.3g2

beanoman · Post by **beanoman** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 7:35 pm

Since no one else has said anything, I'll throw in that I dont have a fuckin clue what that is... Short explanation, and it should 'click' for us dumb ones

Then again, I go semi-retard with add sometimes, so maybe everyone else gets it and I just look like a dumbshit

Clint · Post by **Clint** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 12:42 am

oh sorry. It's my interpretation of the clodbuster "The Stick" chassis.
http://www.thecrawlerstore.com/Xtreme.htm

Since I cant find micro ball links/ends Im forced to make the suspension joints. It's no where near completion.

frizzen · Post by **frizzen** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 4:21 am

Holy fuck.

I say "let's make the rear-end slip a bit, so it can FWD up stuff without going into Super-Wheelie mode".... and Clint starts working on a 1/64 scale Clodbuster with all of the most extreme rockcrawler bits. Man I wanna see that dude on the rocks!!!

*Goes off in search of a hi-lift jack, so I can raise my jaw back off the floor*

honda_s2000 · Post by **honda_s2000** » Sat Sep 02, 2006 4:30 am

Clint you're just fucking crazy

, in a good way.

But as soon as somebody comes up with a suggestion that's remotely interesting , you go full on and make it work.

major props. Good luck

redrustbucket · Post by **redrustbucket** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:52 pm

omg clint, this thing is going to be sick!... i ran into the same prob. trying to find ball joints to 4 link an mt and kind of put it on the back burner till i could find another solution....i cant wait to see how this thing turns out...badass

Clint · Post by **Clint** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 7:29 pm

redrustbucket wrote:omg clint, this thing is going to be sick!... i ran into the same prob. trying to find ball joints to 4 link an mt and kind of put it on the back burner till i could find another solution....i cant wait to see how this thing turns out...badass

Found some 1/16" ball links at the hobby store today.
Going to reserve them for another project. Might be borderline for
1:64th..but modified could work well on a slightly stretched zzmt.

Great Planes brand 1/16th threaded bulk pack of 6. GPMQ3843
Balls, links, threaded rod and nuts.

http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmq3710.html

chrome · Post by **chrome** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 8:47 pm

How are the servo boards working for you Clint? I've often thought about it, but hesitated. The TTT guys often complain that they are having to constantly adjust them for a neutral spot. Any problem with that yet?

Later,
Chrome...

Clint · Post by **Clint** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:30 pm

chrome wrote:How are the servo boards working for you Clint? I've often thought about it, but hesitated. The TTT guys often complain that they are having to constantly adjust them for a neutral spot. Any problem with that yet?

Later,
Chrome...

I can increase or decrease the dead spot with some tx programming,
so this problem should be minimal or not at all. in my testings, the hitecs
have this problem more than the futaba's. I'm planning on using 2
futaba 3110 servos.

I've also been scavenging ebay for bulk lots of broken servos. scored 7
assorted broken servos for 5 bucks. Pieced together 3 of them
working. one even has a coreless motor, bearings and metal gears!
using the rest for parts. tons of good gears and other crap.

minibitguy · Post by **minibitguy** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 6:22 pm

easy. Just put smaller tires on the back. The back will then turn slower, but with more torque.

frizzen · Post by **frizzen** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 5:24 pm

If you change the tire size on one axle, they're going to be constantly fighting each other for traction. Even more fighting than the dual lockers do now, and you could pretty much forget about climbing anything; because whichever axle has more traction, will essentially rob the other one of traction and make the other axle just spin. If we had a Diff in the driveline (T-case position), it might be able to work, though it'd be a bit hard on the diff.

Now where did I put my stall axle anyway...

guerd87 · Post by **guerd87** » Thu Nov 02, 2006 1:57 pm

was reading this thread a while ago and thinking i would love to do it but ive got a few questions

hope you dont mind me using your idea clint, but will some micro servo's like this work?

i sort of get what you mean about the trim pot, should be able to get parts from local dicksmith or something

now im only new on the micro rc scene past pre configured controls

what type of control would you need for this? and how do you configure them forthe servos? do they have a receiver? do they go into a board? imassuming you scrap the ZZMT board, replace the steering with one of these servo boards aswell.as the steering is just pretty much same setup as drive motors

would be good if you guys can help me out a bit, modding the servos,making them drive motors and the whole 2 diffs off a center chassis is easy...but getting the micro controls to work ive never done

cheers
John[/url]

Clint · Post by **Clint** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:34 pm

Guerd, go for it if you can. I've kinda put this on hold since it's costly
and i'm duplicating the design for a 1:32nd tamiya.

You will want to use servos that are known to hold center and can do so
without hunting around. I've had good luck with futaba 3110 and jr sport
sm15 servos. even the popular hitec servos would be crap for this..they
tend to hunt around looking for center.

basically you will need a good programmable computer radio, 4 micro
servos, 4channel gws rx and a small lipo.

In order to not waste parts from good servos. you can use the amp board
from the servo for this project and then the rest of the servo can be
converted to a simple 4 wire setup used in iwaver/miniz cars. My iwaver
loves the gutted jr15 servo.