Been meaning to do this every time I have performed this mod, so finally got around to it. Without further ado…
First off you have to remove the wheels off of an Import Tunerz diecast. You can change this up for other brand diecasts, but I like the style of the Import Tunerz best. That and they are always the perfect size.
There’s been so many questions about the mosfet mod.
From where to buy the chips or the mod, who supplies the chips or who can do the mod, etc., etc.
So here’s an article that put’s it all into perspective.
What does “FET” stand for? (as told by Bird)
“FET” is the shortened slang word for “MOSFET”… Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor.
Basically, all of the drive circuits on these cars are controlled through transistors… regular, run of the mill, low-grade transistors… People use MOSFETS as an upgrade, because they have a lower resistance than the stock transistors, and allow more current and voltage to reach the motor… getting the most out of ordinary motors AND allowing you to upgrade to “hotter” motors with higher current/voltage draw.
These are the tires I’ve been using, but use whatever you want. Mount the tires on some wheels & axles to make it easier to hold. The 2 most important tools for this job are:
This time ’round we’re gonna turn the humble Lego wheel into a very effective and (I think) aesthetically pleasing off-road wheel set. If you haven’t already sold all your Lego as a teen to buy a triple chamber bong, then hunt down these types of wheels. And remember kiddies, drugs are bad, mm’kaaay?!
This little walk through is mainly for enertec micro chargers as they have poor front suspension travel. But the same methods apply for any micro rc front end. You can see the knuckle as far up as it will go, but there’s still room for more travel. The main things to avoid are that the knuckle doesn’t pop out of the chassis at full compression, and that the steering arm doesn’t pop off at full extension.
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